Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
the nightly festival begins. Muhammad broke his fast with a dried date or an olive—which
remain the most common fast-breakers. Saying,
“Allah kabul etsin”
(“May God accept
our fast today”), the staff at a restaurant where I was having only a glass of tea welcomed
me to photograph them, and then offered to share their meal.
Anywhere in Islam, witnessing the breaking of the day-long Ramadan fast at sundown
is like watching children waiting for the recess bell. Throughout my visit, every time I
witnessed this ritual, people offered to share their food. At that restaurant, I said, “No,
thanks,” but they set me up anyway—with figs, lentil soup, bread, and baklava.
Much as I enjoy these Ramadan experiences, my latest visit left me with an uneasy
awareness of how fundamentalism is creeping into the mainstream. Mayors now play a
part in organizing Ramadan festivities. During Ramadan, no-name neighborhood mosques
literally overflow during prayer time. With carpets unfurled on sidewalks, it's a struggle
just walking down the street. I got the unsettling feeling that the inconvenience to passing
pedestrians wasn't their concern… as if they felt everyone should be praying rather than
trying to get somewhere.
I don't want to overstate Turkey's move to the right, but keen and caring secular ob-
servers see an ominous trend. I have friends in Turkey almost distraught at their country's
