Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
When I'm traveling, there are delightful road bumps in my intense research schedule
where I put away the notes and simply enjoy the moment. The classic Friedrichsbad
spa in Baden-Baden is one of those fine little breaks.
Ever since the Roman Emperor Caracalla soaked in the mineral waters of
Baden-Baden, that German spa town has welcomed those in need of a good soak.
And it's always naked. In the 19th century, this was Germany's ultimate spa resort,
and even today the name Baden-Baden is synonymous with relaxation in a land
where the government still pays its overworked citizens to take a little spa time.
I happened to be here when one of our tour groups was in town. I told the guide
(who was a German) that I was excited for this great opportunity for her group to
enjoy the spa. She disagreed, saying, “No one's going. They can't handle the nud-
ity. That's how it is with American visitors.”
They didn't know what they were missing. Wearing only the locker key
strapped around my wrist, I began the ritual. I weighed myself: 92 kilos. The at-
tendant led me under the industrial-strength shower, a torrential kickoff pounding
my head and shoulders…obliterating the rest of the world. She then gave me slip-
pers and a towel, ushering me into a dry heat room with fine wooden reclining
chairs—their slats too hot without the towel. Staring up at exotic tiles of herons and
palms, I cooked. After more hot rooms punctuated with showers came the massage.
Like someone really drunk going for one more glass, I climbed gingerly onto
the marble slab and lay belly-up. The masseur held up two Brillo-pad mitts and he
asked, “Hard or soft?” In the spirit of wild abandon, I said, “Hard,” not certain what
that would mean to my skin. I got the coarse Brillo-pad scrub-down.
I was so soaped up, he had to hold my arms like a fisherman holds a salmon so I
wouldn't slip away. With the tenderness of someone gutting a big fish, he scrubbed,
chopped, bent, and generally tenderized me. In spite of the rough treatment, it was
extremely relaxing.
