Togo - West Africa - page 969

Camping
There are few dedicated campgrounds in West Africa, and those that do exist cater mainly for overlanders in their own
vehicle. Some hotels and campements allow camping or provide an area where tents can be pitched. Grassy knolls on
which to pitch your tent are rare - you often have to force pegs through hard-packed gravel. Camping in the wild is
risky in most countries as theft can be a problem; if you do decide to camp, always seek permission from the local vil-
lage chief before setting up.
Hotels
Most hotels charge for a bed only, with all meals costing extra. If breakfast is included it's usually on a par with the
standard of accommodation: a full buffet in more expensive places, instant coffee and bread further down the scale. Ho-
tels are often called auberges .
Independent travellers on tight budgets are fairly well catered for, although there are almost no backpacker lodges.
Although you will come across some gems, most of what's on offer is basic, devoid of any discernible character, and
ranges from the recently swept to the downright grubby. The showers and toilets are usually shared and often of the
squat variety. Some hotels in this price range double as brothels.
Midrange hotels tend to be at their best in the capitals or major towns, where you're likely to find at least one place
with lovingly maintained rooms, private bathrooms, splashes of local colour, satellite TV and even a swimming pool.
Most midrange places, though fine, fall somewhat short of this ideal. Most offer a choice between a fan and air-con.
West Africa has very few top-end hotels outside the capitals and offers little in the way of exclusive wildlife lodges or
tented camps as found in East or Southern Africa.
Missions
If you're travelling on a tight budget, mission accommodation can be a good alternative to budget hotels, although
rooms are usually reserved for mission or aid workers and are open to others only on a space-available basis. Usually
called missions catholique, they're invariably clean, safe and good value, although these are not places to stagger home
drunk at 4am - at many missions travellers are only allowed to stay if they respect the rules.
Resorts
You'll find European-style resorts all along the West African coast, but the best facilities are at those that cater to
Europeans looking for a comfortable two-week beach holiday. These are especially popular in Senegal, The Gambia and
Cape Verde, where you'll find all-inclusive packages of meals, accommodation and airport transfers. Although it's occa-
sionally possible to get a room by simply walking in off the street, most rooms (and the best deals) are reserved for those
who book the whole package through a travel agency in Europe.
Activities
If the region's natural beauty stirs not just your soul but also your body into action, West Africa has some world-class
activities to get involved in. Desert expeditions, diving and snorkelling, deep-sea fishing, hiking, rock climbing, surfing
and windsurfing are all possible. Adding to the allure is the fact that, unlike elsewhere in the world, you may be the only
traveller taking part. Remember, however, that infrastructure can be rudimentary, so be prepared to be self-sufficient.
West Africa is home to some outstanding guides, and young men ready to drop everything and take you out into the wil-
derness or on a limb: choose carefully.