Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Directory A-Z
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Accommodation
There's almost always some sort of accommodation available in midsized and larger towns in West Africa, although qual-
ity and price vary widely.
All prices we give here are for rooms with a bathroom; exceptions are noted in specific listings.
Mali and Senegal tend to be the most expensive countries, with neither Nigeria nor Niger offering outstanding value for
money when it comes to accommodation. Togo is one of the region's cheapest countries. In some countries, including
Guinea, Mali, Burkina Faso and Nigeria, establishments charge a government tourist tax on top of the price they'll quote
you. Sometimes (such as in Burkina Faso) this is a one-off payment regardless of the number of nights you stay, while in
Nigeria or Mali it's a nightly surcharge added on to the quoted price.
In many parts of West Africa, particularly in the Sahel during the hot season, people often sleep outside their hut or on
the flat roof of their house as it's much cooler. In some hotels this is also possible, and carrying a mattress onto the roof -
where you'll have some breeze and views of the stars - is usually allowed if you ask.
One other thing to note is that in Guinea, Sierra Leone and some other countries, a man and a woman may share a room
with no questions asked, but a same-sex couple, regardless of whether they are a couple, usually cannot.
B&Bs
Burkina Faso is leading the way in smaller, more intimate alternatives to hotels with a range of excellent B&Bs. Prices are
usually cheaper than hotels, and the warmth and personality of the owners (often a French- Burkinabé couple) is a big
drawcard. They're also known as
chambres d'hôtes
or
maisons d'hôtes
. A handful of similar places is appearing in Mali
and Mauritania.
Campements
Most towns and many villages in Francophone countries have a
campement
whose primary purpose is not as a camp-
ground in the traditional sense (ie a place for tents), although some do provide areas where you can pitch a tent and have
access to shower facilities.
Campements
offer cheap and simple accommodation that is far less elaborate than at a hotel,
containing the bare necessities, shared facilities and little else, but some are very good quality, with prices on a par with
midrange hotels. Either way, they're often the best (and sometimes only) option in small towns. Here, 4WDs fill the com-
pound, and overlanders mingle with backpackers who've just arrived on the latest bush taxi.
In trekking areas such as Mali's Dogon Country, it is established practice for visitors to sleep on the roof of the
campe-
ments
in each village, as this is usually preferable to the stifling rooms.
