Togo - West Africa - page 863

traditional societies is that older people (especially men) are treated with deference, while
teachers, doctors and other professionals (usually men) often receive similar treatment.
But traditional culture is not just about immutable social roles and, as it most often
manifests itself in public these days, it can often be a celebration of what binds communit-
ies together. Village festivals ( fêtes in French), which are fundamental to traditional life,
are held to honour dead ancestors and local traditional deities, and to celebrate the end of
the harvest.
TIPS ON MEETING LOCALS
Greetings
There are few more important elements in person-to-person encounters in West Africa than greetings. In villages,
highly ritualised greetings can seem to last an eternity. In cities, the traditional greetings may give way to shorter
ones in French or English, but they're never forgotten. Muslims usually start with the traditional Islamic greet-
ings, Salaam aleikum and Aleikum asalaam ('Peace be unto you', 'And peace be unto you'). This is followed by
more questions, such as 'How are you?', 'How is the family?' and 'How are the people of your village?' The
reply is usually Al humdul'allah (meaning 'Thanks be to God'). While language constraints may mean that your
ability to greet West African -style is limited, launching straight into business is considered rude. Learning some
greetings in the local language will smooth the way considerably in just about every circumstance.
Hand shaking is also an important part of greetings. Use a soft - rather than overly firm - handshake. Some
Muslim men prefer not to shake hands with women, and West African women don't usually shake hands with
their male counterparts.
Deference
Another consideration is eye contact, which is usually avoided, especially between men and women in the Sahel.
If a West African doesn't look you in the eye during a conversation, remember that they're being polite, not cold.
When visiting rural settlements it's a good idea to request to see the chief to announce your arrival and request
permission before wandering through a village. You'll rarely be refused.
Conduct
Although West Africa is changing, social mores remain conservative, so please keep in mind the following
guidelines:
» If you're in a frustrating situation, be patient, friendly and considerate. A confrontational attitude can easily in-
flame the situation (especially when dealing with police officers and immigration officials) and offend local sens-
ibilities.
» Be respectful of Islamic traditions and don't wear revealing clothing; loose, lightweight clothing is preferable.
» Public displays of affection are usually inappropriate, especially in Muslim areas.
» Always ask permission to photograph people.
» Avoid vocal criticism of the government or country; the former could get your friends in trouble and many
West Africans take the latter personally.