Senegal - West Africa - page 757

Elinkine & Île de Karabane
Elinkine is a busy fishing village and jumping-off point for the peaceful Île de Karabane, a
former French trading station (1836-1900). On the island, you can still see the Breton-
style church, with dusty pews and crumbling statues and visit the dilapidated cemetery
where settlers and sailors were laid to rest.
The simple but charming Campement Villageois d'Elinkine ( 77 376 9659; campe men-
[e-mail]; Elinkine; per person CFA9000) offers basic rooms and friendly service. Campement Le
Barracuda ( 77 659 6001; Karabane; r with half/full board CFA7700/10,200) has a recommended fishing
and excursions centre, and helpful management. Hôtel Carabane ( 77 569 0284; hotelcara-
[e-mail]; r with half/full board CFA16,500/25,000) , in the former Catholic mission, is the most
upmarket option on the isle.
For drinks and Senegalese dishes try Africando ( 77 533 3842; Île De Karabane; mains
CFA2000-4000) , nestled among the giant roots of a kapok tree.
Elinkine can be reached by minibus from Ziguinchor (CFA2400, two hours) or Ous-
souye (CFA700, one hour). For Karabane, take the public pirogue from Elinkine
(CFA1550, five minutes, twice daily). Hiring a private pirogue costs around CFA17,000
one way.
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Cap Skiring
The beaches at Cap Skiring are some of the finest in West Africa and, better still, they are
usually empty. Most campements and hotels are on the beach, 1km from the village, at the
end of a dirt track off the Ziguinchor road. Most hotels offer a mix of activities like kayak-
ing , quad hire and fishing trips.
Le Paradise ( 33 993 5303; r CFA15,000; ) is the best of a row of cheap campements . In
Cap Skiring village, the small Auberge Le Palmier ( 33 993 5109; d from CFA12,000; ) is a de-
cent budget bet, while the riverside Kaloa les Palétuviers ( 33 993 5210; www.hotel-kaloa.com ; s/d in-
cl breakfast CFA15,000/26,000; ) is more upmarket and sits among lovely mangroves. La
Maison Bleu ( 33 993 5161; www.lamaisonbleue.org ; r per person from CFA45,000; ) is an airy place
that oozes sophistication, rooms with individual colour schemes and weekend trips to
Guinea-Bissau's archipelago, the Bissagos Islands. Other excellent options on the beach
include Villa des Pêcheurs ( 33 993 5253; www.villadespecheurs.com ; s/d incl breakfast CFA25,000/29,000;
) , which also has a brilliant restaurant and offers the best fishing expeditions in town,