Senegal - West Africa - page 750

CENTRAL SENEGAL
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Tambacounda
The junction town Tambacounda is all about dust, sizzling temperatures and lines of traffic
heading in all directions. It's a jumping-off point for Mali, Guinea and Gambia and is a fine
place to base yourself to visit the Parc National de Niokolo-Koba.
Bloc Gadec ( 77 531 8931; dm/r CFA3000/8000) is a friendly hostel in the centre of town with
clean rooms and shared toilets. Hôtel Niji ( 33 981 1250; www.hotelniji.com ; s/d CFA18,500/22,000;
) has everything from simple bungalows to lush (but soulless) quarters. Try Oasis
Oriental Club ( 33 981 1824; www.oasisoriental.com ; Rte de Kaolack; s/d incl breakfast CFA27,500/34,500;
) for some comfort and service.
Relais du Rais ( 77 552 7096; dishes from CFA2500; noon-2.30pm & 6-11pm) serves filling plates of
rice and sauce, and Saveur Orientale ( 77 322 5619; Garage Kothiary; pizzas CFA2500; 11am-1am) is a
step above the grubby usual in these parts and does good pizzas and snacks. Chez Nanette
(sandwiches CFA1800-2200; 8am-midnight) , right outside Bloc Gadec, is a busy, rootsy drinking
hole that offers snacks and sandwiches.
If you're travelling on to Mali, you get your sept-place taxi to Kidira (CFA6000, three
hours) at Garage Kothiary on the eastern side of town. Vehicles to other destinations go
from the larger gare routière near the market.
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Parc National de Niokolo-Koba
Niokolo-Koba, at 900 sq km, is Senegal's largest national park. It's listed as a World Herit-
age Site in danger, as park resources barely suffice to adequately protect the remaining an-
imals (including elephants, lions, warthogs, and various monkey and antelope species).
You can explore the park by 4WD, though sightings of the rare mammals are far from
guaranteed. The best option is a river tour (CFA6500), where you'll most certainly spot
hippos and crocodiles, combined with an exploration of Simenti, the centre of the park. The
water hole nearby is a good viewing spot.