Mauritania - West Africa - page 561

THE ROAD TO MALI

The Rte de l'Espoir (Road to Hope) from Nouakchott to Néma (around 1100km) is now en-
tirely tarred, giving a smooth (if still very long) trip to the border. Check trusted security
sources before travelling towards the border.
The first major town on the road to the Malian border is Kiffa (population 30,000), an im-
portant regional trading centre and crossroads, where you can bunk down at Auberge Le Phare
du Désert (

) on the outskirts. 644 2421; [e-mail]; tikit UM10,000;

You could also break up your journey at lively Ayoûn el-Atroûs OFFLINE MAP
GOOGLE MAP , which is a good place to spend your last ouguiyas before crossing into
Mali. For accommodation, try the unpretentious Hôtel Ayoûn (

) , 515 1462; s/d UM5000/8000;

which is in the centre, or Auberge Saada Tenzah (

641 1052, 515 1337; r UM2500-6000) , about 3km

east of the centre on the road to Néma.
The tarred road ends at the town of Néma , the jumping-off point for Oualâta. You'll find
several petrol pumps here, a couple of modest stores and a police station at which you can
get your passport stamped. You can base yourself at Complexe Touristique N'Gady (

513 0900;

) , a few kilometres west of the centre. bungalow s/d UM7000/9000, r 12,000-15,000;

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Oualâta
Possibly one of Mauritania's best-kept secrets , Oualâta is another ancient Saharan town
high on atmosphere and personality. Dating from 1224, it used to be the last resting point
for caravans heading for Timbuktu. It's about 100km north of Néma but is definitely worth
the gruelling ride to get here.
Entering the town you'll be struck by the red mudbrick houses adorned with decorative
paintings on the exterior and interior. There's a small museum and a library , which houses
ancient Islamic manuscripts. There are also several rock paintings and archaeological sites
in the vicinity. Various camel trips can be organised (ask your hosts).
Although you're miles from anywhere, you'll find about six guesthouses to rest your
weary limbs, including Auberge Tayib/Gamni - Auberge de l'Hotel de Ville (r per person UM3000) and
Auberge Ksar Walata (r per person UM5000) , which features a lovely patio and attractive rooms.
They all serve meals.