Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Getting There & Away
There is at least one vehicle a day to/from Atâr (car/4WD UM1500/2500, two hours)
They leave from just behind the market. There are no bush taxis between Chinguetti and
Ouadâne; you'll have to go back to Atâr.
TOP OF CHAPTER
Ouadâne
Sitting on the edge of the Adrar plateau, 120km northeast of Chinguetti, Ouadâne is one
of the most enchanting semighost towns of the Sahara. As you arrive across the sands or
plateau from Atâr or Chinguetti, the stone houses of
Le Ksar al Kiali
(Old Quarter; admission
UM1000)
seem to tumble down the cliff. The top of the hill is dominated by the minaret of
the new mosque, which is a mere 200 years old, while at the western end, at the base of
the town, is the 14th-century
old mosque
. In between, the crumbling structures seem to have
been piled up higgledy-piggledy by some giant child playing with building blocks. Like
Chinguetti, Ouadâne was a place of scholarship and is home to over 3000 manuscripts
held in private
libraries
. Only 20 to 30 families still live in the old town.
Sleeping & Eating
All places to stay can prepare meals for their guests (about UM2000 for lunch or dinner) -
try the
ksour,
a local thick pancake made of wheat. Most places are down on the plateau.
Mellow
Auberge Vasque - Chez Zaid
( 681 7669; tikit per person UM2000, r with bathroon & air-con
UM10,000)
is run by Zaida, a congenial lady who goes out of her way to make your stay a
happy one. There are five
tikits
and a couple of nomads' tents. Rooms at
Auberge Warane
(
4687 3508; r/tent per person UM1500)
are a bit bunkerlike but the place is friendly enough.
Auberge Agoueidir - Chez Isselmou
( 4525 0791; agoueidir@yahoo.fr; tikit/tent per person UM1200/2500, s/d
UM5000/7000)
is the grandest outfit, but was block-booked by oil workers when we visited.
Getting There & Away
Without your own vehicle, getting to Ouadâne isn't always straightforward. Atâr is the
place to look for transport, and vehicles run between the two most days, usually in the
morning (bush taxi/4WD UM3000/4000, about four hours). Direct transport between
Ouadâne and Chinguetti runs next to never.
