Mauritania - West Africa - page 558

One of the more attractive of the ancient caravan towns in the Sahara, Chinguetti is
shrouded with a palpable historic aura. It was once famous for its Islamic scholars, and
was the ancient capital of the Moors; some of the buildings date from the 13th century.
Chinguetti butts up against Erg Warane, Mauritania's biggest stretch of dunes, and is more
than enough to meet traveller's expectations of the great Saharan sand ocean.
The highlight of any visit is a wander through the labyrinthine lanes of Le Ksar (Old Town)
. The principal attraction is the 16th-century stone mosque (no entry to non-Muslims).
Also of great interest are the five old libraries , which house the fragile-as-dust ancient
Islamic manuscripts of Chinguetti.
The best way to see the fascinating dunes around Chinguetti is by camel. Numerous
méharées (camel trips) are available. Standard costs start from UM8000 per person per
day for the camel, food and guide. Any reputable travel agency in Atâr or auberge owner
can arrange camel rides . If you don't want to sweat it out, you can hire a 4WD and driver.
They cost from UM17,000 per day, petrol not included.
Sleeping & Eating
Most places have shared bathroom unless otherwise stated. Breakfast and meals are avail-
able on request (about UM2000 per meal). The tourist industry has collapsed in recent
years in Chinguetti, so many guesthouses are closed - all those listed are currently open
for business.
Auberge des Caravanes GUESTHOUSE $
( 540 0022; fax [phone]; r per person UM2000) With its eye-catching, traditional architecture, it's
hard to miss this place right in the centre of town. Rooms are pretty simple, and it can feel
a bit impersonal, but it's adequate for the price.
Auberge La Gueïla GUESTHOUSE $$
( 2205 5056; www.lagueila.com ; s/d UM8000/ 12,800, dinner UM2800; ) A fabulous, newly built,
French-run place, with six charming rooms, excellent food (to be taken in the courtyard
garden), a library and even a massage room for real unwinding.
L'Eden de Chinguetti GUESTHOUSE $$
( 2220 38844; [e-mail]; r UM8000) This impressive auberge is a great place to
stay. It's neat, well tended and embellished with well-chosen knick-knacks and a nice
garden. The English-speaking owner is a mine of information. It's on the road to Atâr, not
far from Auberge La Rose des Sables.