Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Reachable after two days on some of Liberia's worst roads, deliquescent, small-town
Harper feels like the prize at the end of a long treasure hunt. The capital of the once-
autonomous Maryland state, this gem is shingled with decaying ruins that hint at its
former grandeur.
The drive from Monrovia to Harper can be broken up in Zwedru (10 hours), from
where it's around five hours further south. It's inadvisable to attempt this route during the
rainy season, even if you're travelling by 4WD.
Sights
In the early evenings, the soft light gives an eldritch feel to the shell of the
presidential man-
sion
of former president William Tubman, who was born in Harper, and the remnants of the
Morning Star Masonic Lodge
, built by Tubman, himself a Grand Master Freemason.
Cape Palmas Lighthouse
is no longer functional but can be climbed for an outstanding pan-
oramic view of the cape. It's on a UN base, so get permission first, and don't attempt to
scale the small, slippery steps during the rainy season. Don't miss the stunning, palm-
lined
beach
at nearby Fish Town (not to be confused with the larger town of the same
name), but take care with the currents if you swim.
Sleeping
The town's best-established hotel is
Adina's Guest House
( 0886-620 005; r US$25)
, which has
several basic rooms with fans. If it's fully booked, as is often the case, you can try your
luck at Tubman University campus 6.5km north of town or the Pastoral Centre of the
Catholic archdiocese.
Eating & Drinking
Jade's
LIBERIAN
$
(cnr Water & Rushman Sts)
Jade's (or Sweet Baby, as some locals lovingly call it) serves fish,
chicken and rice for US$5 per helping, as well as sandwiches and pizzas if the delivery
truck has brought supplies.
Sophie's
LIBERIAN
$
(Mechlin St)
Sophie's offers good potato greens and cassava-leaf stew.
