Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Guinea-Bissau will tell you they just know how to let their hair down properly. There's a
spirit of liberty, joy and acceptance in many situations.
SUPER MAMA DJOMBO
In the tiny, nigh-on-impossible to access village of Cobiana, a spirit rose to prominence during the independence
era of the late 1960s and early 1970s. Her name was Mama Djombo, and she was said to protect the independen-
ce fighters as they waged a bloody battle against Portugal. A few years earlier, musician Ze Manel (then seven
years old) and his compatriots created a band at their summer scout camp in Bissau. They named it Super Mama
Djombo, after the forest spirit, and later shot to fame, accompanying independence figures to neighbouring coun-
tries, to Cuba and to Europe.
Today, the re-formed Super Mama Djombo is Bissau's most famous band, performing their woozy independen-
ce era harmonies throughout the region and as far afield as Iceland and Hong Kong. With tracks like 'Djan Djan',
about the ship on which bandleader Atchutchi sailed to Senegal during the civil war, and 'Guine Cabral', their
music contains the sad notes and the euphoria of the independence era - and then some. 'The people of Guinea-
Bissau are like termite mounds,' Ze Manel told us, referring to the track 'Baga Baga'. 'Knock us down and we
get right back up.'
TOP OF CHAPTER
People
Guinea-Bissau's 1.5 million inhabitants are divided among some 23 ethnic groups. The
two largest are the Balanta (30%) in the coastal and central regions and the Fula (20%) in
the east and south. Other groups include the Manjak, Papel, Fulup and the Mandinka. The
offshore islands are mostly inhabited by the Bijagós people. In the last few years, tensions
have been growing between the Balanta and other ethnic groups.
About 45% of the people are Muslims and 10% Christians. Animist beliefs remain
strong along the coast and in the south.
TOP OF CHAPTER
Arts & Crafts
The Bijagós people are famous for their traditions of mask making and sculpture - you
will see these come out in carnival season.
The traditional Guinean beat is
gumbé,
though contemporary music is mainly influen-
ced by zouk from Cape Verde. Guinea-Bissau's classic band is Super Mama Djombo;
Manecas Costa and Justino Delgado are two contemporary stars.
