Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
THE NORTHWEST
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Quinhámel
Quinhámel, 35km west of Bissau, makes an interesting day or weekend trip. You can
overnight at
Mar Azul
( 6760990, 6656086; r incl lunch CFA40,000)
, where rooms overlook the
pool, gardens and ocean. The restaurant serves grilled oysters served with a hot citrus
sauce. About 2km away, nestled between the mangroves, is a local
beach
popular with famil-
ies and young people at the weekends. The inspiring community project
Artissal
( 6604078;
artissal@gmail.com; 9am-5pm)
introduces visitors to the region's unique weaving traditions.
Transporte misto
from Bissau costs CFA500; a private taxi is around CFA15,000 return.
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Varela
The 45km road from São Domingos is rough, even in a good 4WD - and that's why the
white-sand, windswept beaches of Varela remain deserted. There are plans to tarmac the
road, but until that happens, Varela's charm lies in its remoteness.
Transporte misto
leaves every afternoon from São Domingos (CFA3000) taking around
four hours and returning the following morning. If you're driving by 4WD, plan on at least
two hours. You can also come in from Senegal, via Kabrousse, but this route involves sev-
eral hours' walk and arranging a
pirogue
with local fishermen in advance.
To reach the main
beach
from Fatima's place, turn right out of the gate and drive until you
reach the end of the main road. Turn right again, and follow the long track for about five
minutes until you hear the sound of the waves.
Chez Fatima
GUESTHOUSE
$
(Aparthotel Chez Helena; 5120036, 6640180; d/ste CFA15,000/20,000; )
Friendly owners Fatima and
Franco offer nine brightly coloured huts in a pretty garden setting. The huts are lovingly
decorated, with fans, mosquito nets and bathrooms. There's Italian food and fresh juices
(they grow their own tomatoes and passion fruits) on hand in the restaurant. Call ahead for
information on road conditions. The generator kicks in after dark.
