Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
abandoned after independence. Tree-lined boulevards are mapped out by lamp posts that
no longer shine, and the colonial barracks have been recast as a hospital, now - like much
of the island - in a dark and desolate state.
The former
town hall
, flanked by Greek-style pillars, was built in 1870; these days huge
splinters hang like stalactites from its ceilings. The turrets of the once grandiose
Hotel Tur-
ismo
sit in an overgrown nest of lianas, 3m-tall weeds and snakes. It's worth walking out to
Ofires Beach, an hour's stroll from the town, to see the spooky sweeping
staircase
of a
beach hotel that no longer exists.
You can rent a breezy room at the
fishing training centre
( call Ivan Gomes for reservations
5286345; r incl breakfast CFA12,500)
close to the port. There is electricity at the centre, but the
rooms do not have fans. Alternatively, ask for directions to the smarter
Hotel Ga Djau
(r
CFA13,000)
, a 15-minute walk from the market. The rooms do have fans, but the generator
shuts off late at night.
Feisty
Lionessa
(meals CFA1000)
serves up fresh fish and potatoes most evenings if you order
in advance. Find her cafe about halfway up the main road, on the right-hand side if you're
walking from the port.
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Ilha de Bubaque
At the centre of the Bijagós, Bubaque is home to the archipelago's largest town, which
serves as its major transport hub. If you can't make it to more remote islands, Bubaque
makes a comfortable place to unwind and a good weekend getaway from Bissau. Its best
beach is
Praia Bruce
on the southern tip.
There's an internet cafe, the research and information centre
Casa do Ambiente
(
3207106)
and a small
museum
( 6115107; admission CFA1000; 10am-1pm & 4-7pm)
.
You can lay your head at pretty
Casa Dora
( 6928836, 5967714, 6925836; susybuba
que@gmail.com; s/d CFA10,000/15,000)
, housed in a colourful garden, or from November to May
at
Le Calypso
( 5949207, 6106436; calypso @gtelecom.gw; s/d CFA20,000/22,000; )
, which has a
pool and bar. At the top of Bubaque's game is
Kasa Afrikana
( 5949213, 7243305;
www.kasa-
afrikana.com
;
per person from CFA40,000; )
, a fishing lodge that hits the right ratio of
charm to luxury, with comfortable rooms, a pool and on-site chef.
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