Guinea - West Africa - page 461

Overshadowed on the international stage by neighbouring Mali and Senegal, Guinea still
packs a punch when it comes to musical tradition.
Sekou Touré's form of communism may have been an economic disaster, but the gov-
ernment's emphasis on nationalist authenticité in the arts, and state patronage of artistic
institutions, was a bonus. Musicians were funded and allowed time to perfect their art,
paving the way for the sound most commonly associated with Guinean music - that of the
great dance orchestras of the 1960s and '70s. They, in turn, were strongly influenced by
the traditions of the Mande griots (West Africa's hereditary praise singers).
The first orchestra to leap to fame was the Syli National Orchestra, whose guitarist,
'Grand' Papa Diabaté, became one of the greatest stars of Guinea's music scene. They
perfected the Guinean rumba, a fusion of traditional songs and Latin music. Bembeya Jazz
would achieve even greater recognition, thanks, in part, to their guitarist, Sékou 'Diamond
Fingers' Diabaté, one of the most talented musicians of his generation.
Legendary South African singer and activist Miriam Makeba lived in exile in Guinea
from the late 1960s until the early 1980s, recording with and performing alongside some
of the top local musicians.
In the early 1980s, Guinea's dire economic situation had worsened and large orchestras
became difficult to fund, forcing many artists to Abidjan, where 90% of all Guinean re-
leases were recorded. The centre of the pop world soon shifted to Paris, where acclaimed
Guinean vocalist and kora player Mory Kanté was based.
Alongside Kanté and Sekouba Diabaté, who joined Bembeya Jazz at the age of 19 be-
fore going solo in the 1990s, popular musicians today include Ba Cissoko (a band whose
sound has been described as 'West Africa meets Jimi Hendrix'), and kora player and vo-
calist Djeli Moussa Diawara. Guinea also has a vibrant hip-hop scene, with many young
artists using their music to lash out at Guinea's poor living conditions and political corrup-
tion. The best-known name in Guinean hip-hop is Bill de Sam.
Dance is also popular in Guinea. The dance group Les Ballets Africains today remains
the 'prototype' of West African ballet troupes, while Circus Baobab mixes trapeze shows
and acrobatics with their dance shows.
Camara Laye, author of L'Enfant Noir , is the country's best-known writer.
To pick up some typical arts and crafts, try the indigo and mud-cloth cooperatives in
many towns.
When it comes to eating out, proper restaurants are rare outside Conakry, though most
towns have a couple of basic eating houses serving riz gras (rice fried in oil and tomato
paste and served with fried fish, meat or vegetables) or simple chicken and chips. In Fouta