Ghana - West Africa - page 420

left along a path to go up a hill. The views of Butre when you reach the summit are a sight
to behold, with the ruined Fort Batenstein nestled in palm trees on a bluff, Butre sand-
wiched between the ocean and the lagoon, and the ocean lapping a long, curvy beach bey-
ond the lagoon.
Dixcove VILLAGE
Dixcove (or Dick's Cove, as it was once known) is a large, bustling fishing village, with a
very different feel from Busua. Its natural harbour is deep enough for small ships to enter
- one of the reasons the British chose to settle here, building Fort Metal Cross in 1696.
Dixcove is just 20 minutes' walk over the headland to the west of Busua. Locals warn
against walking the track alone, however, so heed their advice and take a local guide with
you.
Black Star Surf Shop SURFING
( 026-1951360; www.blackstarsurfshop.com ) This stalwart surfing establishment rents long-
boards, shortboards (per hour C15) and bodyboards (C6). They also run regular surfing
lessons (C40, two hours).
Sleeping
Alaska Beach Club BACKPACKERS $
( 020-7397311; huts with/without bathroom C50/25) Owned by an Alaskan with an eccentric sense
of humour, the lovely Alaska offers an assortment of bungalows right on the beach. There
is a large bar and restaurant too, complete with loud music and hammocks. All told, it of-
fers the best value in town.
Busua Inn GUESTHOUSE $$
( 020-7373579; www.busuainn.com ; r with fan & cold water C55, r with air-con & hot water C110; )
Busua's most charming midrange option. Owners Danielle and Olivier offer four clean,
spacious and breezy rooms with sea views. There's a leafy terrace restaurant that backs
onto the beach, serving good but overpriced French and West African dishes (mains C20
to C30) against a good wine list.
Busua Beach Resort RESORT $$$
( 031-2093307; www.busuabeach.com ; s/d/ste US$132/162/187; ) This plush resort has a
slight corporate feel with its manicured lawns and impersonal bungalows. That said, you