The Gambia - West Africa - page 368

crafts centre; and demonstrations of traditional dancing. The tours are well organised and
run by excellent staff. This is a great day out, especially for families seeking a taste of
nature away from the beaches and without the hassle of braving the roads upcountry.
If you feel like a treat, you can stay in the forest at the exclusive and very stunning eco-
retreat Mandina River Lodge ( 9951547; www.mandinalodges.com ; s/d withhalf board from D4000/7800;
) , an elegant marriage of lavishness and respect for nature. It provides three types of
lodge: in-the-jungle accommodation tucked away in the mangroves with roof terraces that
beg you to perch for hours; solar-powered luxury lodges floating on the river; and stilt
houses boasting open-air bathrooms and hammock - and day-bed filled terraces.
Phone or email beforehand to be picked up from Brikama in the morning and dropped
off in the evening with the park's bus (D150 one way). A private taxi from Brikama costs
around D200.

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Tanji, Brufut & Around
Located just to the south of the Atlantic Coast resorts, Brufut has rapidly changed from a
tranquil fishing village to a built-up tourist centre. Small and attractive Hibiscus House (
7982929; www.hibiscushousegambia.com ; Brufut; s/d incl breakfast from D2800/3500;

) is tucked away

at the end of a bougainvillea-lined road.
A short drive southward takes you to Tanji . Here, the charming Tanji Village Museum (
9926618; [e-mail]; adult/child D120/30; 9am-5pm) presents Gambian nature and life scenes by
recreating a traditional Mandinka village, where you can peer into huts and learn about the
country's history and artisan crafts. The Tanji River Bird Reserve ( 9919219; admission D40;
9am-6pm) is an area of dunes, lagoons and woodland, and contains Bijol Island, a protected
breeding ground for the Caspian tern.
Tanji village, 3km south of the reserve office , has a couple of good lodgings. Nyanya's
Beach Lodge ( 9808678; www.nyanyas-beach-lodge.com ; s/d D500/600) has bright bungalows in a leafy
garden on the bank of a Gambia River branch.
A little further south in Tujering , you can observe batik makers and weavers in the vil-
lage. Put in a stop at the quirky and wonderful Tunbung Arts Village ( 9982102;
www.tunbungartvillage.com ; Tujering Village; admission free) , a ragged assembly of skewed huts,
wildly painted walls and random sculptures that peer out behind walls and from treetops.
This is the creative universe of Etu Ndow, a renowned Gambian artist. It's fun to look at
this piece of live art in progress, including the small museum displaying exhibits relating
to local history. The arts centre also offers a few rooms (per person incl breakfast D350) in mud