Cape Verde - West Africa - page 270

Pizzeria Ti Lello PIZZERIA $
(pizzas CVE500; noon-11pm) At the entrance to town if coming from Ribeira Grande along
the old road, across from the beach, this Italian-run spot with a covered open-air patio
churns out the island's best pizzas (evening only) as well as good spaghetti and burgers.
Atelier CAFE $
(meals CVE700; 9am-late) This artsy hideaway behind Hotel Paul Mar is the local hipster
hang-out. Run by a young musician and his wife, it serves yummy snacks, traditional
dishes and herb teas in the small interior or on the large terrace outside. There's live music
on weekends, often featuring up-and-coming musicians.
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Tarrafal
Lost in the burning desert beige of the west coast, the sleepy little oasis of Tarrafal, set
along a beach of inky black sand, is a delightful place to rest, unwind and do nothing more
strenuous than flip the pages of a book. The high cliffs here shelter the beach from the
worst of the winds. The Pensão Mar Tranquilidade ( 2276012; www.martranquilidade.com ; s/d
CVE2000/2800) offers lovely stone-and-thatch cottages as well as good meals and all kinds of
activities.
The journey to Tarrafal is long and bumpy. Alugueres (CVE700) normally leave Porto
Novo every morning (except Sunday) after the ferry disgorges its passengers. Taxis charge
a hefty CVE10,000 one way; to find them, head to the bar of Residencial Antilhas.