Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Dramatically situated on the sea, 15km from Praia, Cidade Velha (literally 'Old City')
gained Unesco World Heritage status in 2009 as the first European settlement in the trop-
ics. Founded in 1462 as Ribeira Grande, the city became wealthy as a station for the
transatlantic slave trade. Raids by pirates - including a particularly destructive visit by Sir
Francis Drake in 1585 - eventually forced the Portuguese to move shop to Praia.
Remains from its heyday include the ruins of the
cathedral
, constructed in 1693, and the
pillory
on the town square where enslaved captives were chained up and displayed. Most
impressive is the town's position between the sea and the mouth of a canyon that, thanks
to irrigation, remains green even in the driest months. For sweeping views, take the
curving trail up to the dramatic cliff-side fort built in 1593,
Fortaleza Real de São Filipe
(CVE500;
8am-6pm daily)
. Also worth a look is
São Francisco monastery and church
(CVE500;
8am-6pm
daily)
, reachable along a marked trail that leads up from the lush valley.
There are several cafes and restaurants around the main square. Try
Tereru di Kultura
(mains
CVE1100; 9am-9pm Mon, Wed-Fri & Sun, to 10pm Sat)
for its lovely oceanfront terrace. The more
local and downhome
Penedinho
(mains CVE800)
next door bustles with action.
There's a
tourist info point
( 9am-noon & 3-5pm)
along the coastal road, up from the main
square, in a little white house with yellow windows.
Buses from Praia (CVE80, 30 minutes) leave from Sucupira Market and return regu-
larly until 7pm. Taxis charge about CVE3500 for a return trip, including up to two hours
to visit the sites.
