Cameroon - West Africa - page 221

Mandara Mountains
Basalt cliffs dot a volcanic plain, dust storms conceived on the Nigerian border sweep out
of the sunset onto thorn trees, red rock cairns and herds of brindle cattle…and frankly, you
wouldn't be half surprised to see a cowboy or a dragon or both pass across this awesome,
evocative landscape. The Mandara Mountains run west from Maroua to the Nigerian bor-
der and have become very popular - justifiably so - with Africa hikers.
The villages that dot these ranges are as captivating as the vistas they are built on, in-
cluding Rhumsiki , with its striking mountain scenery; Djingliya and Koza , set against steep
terraced hillsides; Tourou , known for the calabash hats worn by local women; and Maga ,
with its domed houses made entirely of clay. Mora has a particularly notable weekly mar-
ket. Hiking between villages is one of the best ways to appreciate the scenery and culture
alike.
Rhumsiki is the main entrance point for visitors to the Mandara Mountains, and is the
one place where there's a tangible feel of a tourist scene (although in Cameroon this is a
relative term).
There's accommodation in Rhumsiki, Mokolo, Mora, Waza, Maga and a few other vil-
lages, but otherwise no infrastructure. If you're travelling independently, allow plenty of
time and plan to be self-sufficient with food and water. Local minibuses usually set off
around 6am. Moto-taxis are sometimes the only option for getting around.
For those with limited time, travel agencies in Maroua can organise visits, although it's
just as easy to arrange things on the spot in Rhumsiki or Mokolo, which will ensure that
more of the money you spend is pumped directly into the local economy. Expect to pay
around CFA9000 per day, including guide, simple meals and accommodation.
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Parc National du Waza
The most accessible of Cameroon's national parks, Parc National du Waza (admission CFA5000,
vehicle CFA2000, camera CFA2000; 6am-6pm 15 November-15 May) is also the best for viewing wild-
life. While it can't compare with East African parks, you're likely to see elephants, hip-
pos, giraffes, antelopes and - with luck - lions. Late March to April is the best time for
viewing, as the animals congregate at water holes before the rains. Waza is also notable
for its particularly rich birdlife. The park is closed during the rainy season.
A guide (CFA5000) is obligatory in each vehicle. Walking isn't permitted.