Cameroon - West Africa - page 204

money (stock up on CFA before leaving Bamenda). There are basic hotels in Ndop,
Kumbo, Nkambe and Wum.
Starting from Bamenda and heading east, you pass Sabga Hill , which rises powerfully
above Ndop, then Bamessing , with a handicraft centre and pottery workshop. After that you
reach Kumbo , dominated by its Catholic cathedral and fon 's (traditional chief's) palace.
It's a good place to base yourself, with a nice market and the Ring Road's best hotels.
From there you go north to Nkambe, then Missaje and the end of the road.
The road from Missaje to We is just a dirt track and in the rainy season you won't find
it. Some travellers continue on foot, sometimes with help from Fulani herdsmen. It can
take a couple of days to get to We, so bring supplies.
If you make the hike from Missaje to We, you'll pass Lake Nyos , a volcanic lake that was
the site of a natural-gas eruption in 1986, which resulted in around 1700 deaths. Continu-
ing south you reach Wum , the biggest town on the west side of the Ring Road. South of
Wum the road passes the Metchum Falls , where most shared-taxi drivers will stop to let you
take a quick peek or photo.
The last town on the Ring Road (or the first, if you're heading clockwise) is Bafut , tradi-
tionally the strongest of the kingdoms in this region. The fon's palace (admission CFA1000, camera
CFA1500, museum CFA2000) is a highlight of the Ring Road and includes a tour of the com-
pound where the fon 's large family lives.

TOP OF CHAPTER

Bafoussam
There's initially little to love about Bafoussam. The Bamiléké stronghold seems haphazar-
dly built on agriculture money and a refined sense of chaos. But despite its heavy traffic
and uninspiring appearance, the town is super friendly and has one of the best traditional
palaces in the country. Make sure you check out the huge chefferie (Chief's Compound;
www.museumcam.org ; admission CFA2000; 10am-5pm) , about 15km south at Bandjoun.
Good value, with a decent bar to boot, the rooms at Hotel Federal ( 3344 1309; Rte de Foum-
ban; r CFA10,000-12,000, with air-con CFA16,000) are neat and tidy. Although located in a blocky
bomb-shelter chic building, the rooms in Hotel du Centre ( 7512 4025, 3344 2079; Carrefour Total; r
CFA12,000-15,000) are open and fresh, many come with a balcony, and the toilets - bless them
- have seats. It's well located (as the name suggests) and a useful landmark. For far better
midrange accommodation head to Hotel Altitel (

3344 5111; www.hotelaltitel.net ; r CFA23,000-33,000;

) or the more distant Hotel Le Saré ( 9944 5059, 3344 2599; r CFA15,000-28,000) , both on

the road towards Bamenda.