Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Chemist's Roundabout) changes travellers cheques as well as US dollars. SGBC Bank
OFFLINE MAP GOOGLE MAP (Commercial Ave) has an ATM.
Getting There & Away
Most agency offices for destinations to the south are on Sonac St. Destinations include
Yaoundé (CFA5000, six hours), Douala (CFA4500, seven hours) and Bafoussam
(CFA1500, 90 minutes). Nkwen Motor Park has transport to the eastern stretch of the
Ring Road, including Ndop (CFA1200, 90 minutes) and Kumbo (CFA3000, five hours).
The west Ring Road is served by Ntarikon Motor Park, which runs minibuses to Wum
(CFA3000, six hours). Shared taxis to the further motor parks shouldn't cost you any more
than CFA150.
TOP OF CHAPTER
The Ring Road
The northwest highlands bear the pretty name 'Grassfields', an appellation too pleasant to
really capture the look of this landscape. These aren't gentle fields; they're green and yel-
low valleys, tall grass, red earth and sharp mountains. Clouds of mist rise with wood
smoke and dung smoke that mark the location of villages speckled on this deceptively in-
viting - but hard and rugged - terrain.
The 367km Ring Road runs a circle around the Grassfields, and if it were in better
shape, it'd be one of Cameroon's great scenic drives. In fairness, it still can't be missed -
but get your butt ready for some bumpy, red-earth roads. The pay-off? Mountains
dolloped with lakes, cattle loping into the hills and one of the greatest concentrations of
fondoms (traditional kingdoms) in Cameroon. Tourism is DIY here, with public transport
extremely slow, crowded and irregular and very basic sleeping options in the few actual
towns on the road. But a visit here is all about the journey itself: driving through tiny vil-
lages and enjoying the extraordinary and ever-changing scenery along the route.
Hiking, cycling and camping are all options, but always ask the permission of the local
chief, and bring some gifts (whisky is a good idea). If you plan to drive this incredibly
challenging road, hire a 4x4 and don't even think about it in the rainy season.
Transport links are reasonable but not particularly frequent, with minibuses usually
leaving very early in the morning. Roads are poor throughout. Kumbo is the Ring Road's
largest town, but apart from there, there's little infrastructure and nowhere to change
 
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