Burkina Faso - West Africa - page 154

From Sindou, it's a long way along a dirt track to Niansogoni (no public transport). But
the reward is sweet. The Campement de Niansogoni ( 76 48 06 59; [e-mail]; Niansogoni; r
without bathroom CFA4000) offers simple yet well-maintained huts with thatched roofs in a glor-
ious setting. Meals (and cold beer!) are available (CFA2000). The owner, Richard Traoré,
is passionate about the region and can arrange all kinds of excursions.
TOP OF CHAPTER
Gaoua & Lobi Country
The small town of Gaoua (population 25,100) is a good base for exploring Lobi country,
an area that's culturally distinct (see Click here ).
There are a couple of ATMs (Visa only) in town. For internet, head to the women-run
Association Pour la Promotion Féminine de Gaoua (Gaoua; per hr CFA500; 7.30am-8pm Mon-Sat) in the
centre. It also sells local handicrafts such as shea-butter soap and creams, pottery and tex-
tiles (the shop is open 7.30am to 12.30pm and 3pm to 6pm Monday to Friday).
Sights
There's a vibrant Sunday market , but the town's unique selling point is its excellent ethno-
logical museum, Musée de Poni ( www.musee-gaoua.gov.bf ; Gaoua; admission CFA2000; 8am-12.30pm &
3-6pm Tue-Sun) . There are full-scale reproductions of a Lobi and a Gan compound as well as
a wide range of photographs and artefacts. The guides really know their stuff too; Louk-
mane Savadogo (%76 93 12 55) is particularly recommended.
LOBI TRADITIONS
Lobi traditions are some of the best preserved in West Africa. For travellers, the most obvious is the architecture
of rural Lobi homes. The mudbrick compounds are rectangular and walls only have small slits for windows, for
defensive purposes. In the old days, polygamous men built a bedroom for each of their wives.
The Lobi are also known for their cultural rituals. For example, the dyoro initiation rites, which take place
every seven years, are still widely observed. As part of this important rite of passage, young men and women are
tested on their stamina and skills; they also learn about sexual mores, the clan's history and the dos and don'ts of
their culture.
Your best bet to explore Lobi heritage is to hire a guide in Gaoua (ask at Hôtel Hala). Visits will take in vil-
lages such as Sansana and Doudou , where you can admire different architectural styles and crafts (pottery, bas-
ket weaving, sculpture). Doudou is famed for its artisanal gold-mining, which is the prerogative of women, and
its market (every five days).