Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
If you want to hitch because there's no public transport leaving imminently from the gare routière, you'll normally
have to go well beyond the town limits, as bush taxi drivers may take umbrage at other vehicles 'stealing' their custom-
ers. Even so, you'll probably still have to pay for your lift - but at least you'll get moving more quickly.
Hitching in the Western sense (ie because you don't want to get the bus or, more specifically, because you don't want
to pay) is also possible but may take a long time. The only people giving free lifts are likely to be foreign expatriates or
the occasional well-off local (very few West Africans own a car). Remember, however, that most people with space in
their car want payment - usually on a par with what a bus would have cost.
Local Transport
For getting around cities and larger towns, you'll generally have a choice of bus (capital cities only) and a range of taxis.
Bus
Within some capital cities, you may find well-developed city bus and minibus networks connecting the city centre and
suburbs. In most other cities, it's minibuses only. In general, city buses travel along set routes, while minibuses may de-
tour a little more.
Taxi
MOTORCYCLE TAXI
In many countries, motorcycle taxis ( moto-taxis or motos ) are used. While they're often cheaper than shared taxis and
handy for zipping around, safety can be an issue. If you have a choice, it's usually better to pay slightly more and go
with a regular shared taxi.
PRIVATE TAXI
Only in the bigger cities, such as Dakar, Abidjan and Ouagadougou, do taxis have meters (compteurs) . Otherwise, bar-
gaining is required or you'll be given the legally fixed rate. In any case, determine the fare before getting into the taxi.
The fare from most airports into town is fixed, but some drivers (in Dakar, for example) will try to charge at least double
this. In places like Bamako, it costs up to 50% more to go into town from the airport than it does to go the other way.
The price always includes luggage unless you have a particularly bulky item. Also, fares invariably go up at night, and
sometimes even in rainy weather.
If the city you're exploring is spread out and you've limited time, or if you're likely to be jumping in and out of taxis,
consider renting a taxi by the hour or day. It will probably cost you less (anywhere from about US$20 to US$50 per
day), and if the car breaks down it will be the driver's problem.
SHARED TAXI
Many cities have shared taxis that will stop and pick up more passengers even if they already have somebody inside;
you pay just for one seat. Some run on fixed routes and are effectively a bus, only quicker and more comfortable. Others
go wherever the first passenger wants to go, and other people will only be picked up if they're going in the same direc-
tion. They normally shout the name of the suburb or a landmark they're heading for as the taxi goes past. In some
places, it's common for the waiting passengers to call out the name of their destination or point in the desired direction
as the taxi passes by. Once you've got the hang of the shared taxi system, it's quick and inexpensive, and an excellent
way to get around cities - and also a good way to experience local life. It's also one of West Africa's great bargains, as
fares seldom exceed US$0.50. It's always worth checking the fare before you get in the car though, as they're not al-
ways fixed, and meters don't apply to shared trips. If you're the first person in the taxi, make it clear that you're expect-
 
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