Togo - West Africa - page 1000

Equipment
Mountain bikes are most suitable for cycling in West Africa and will give you the greatest flexibility in setting your
route. While heavy, single-speed bicycles can be rented in many towns (and occasionally mountain bikes), they're not
good for anything other than short, local rides, so you should bring your own bicycle into the country if you plan on rid-
ing extended distances. To rent a bike locally, ask staff at hotels, or enquire at bicycle-repair stands (every town market
has one).
Apart from water, your main concern will be motorists. Cyclists are regarded as third-class citizens in West Africa, so
make sure you know what's coming up behind you and be prepared to take evasive action, as local cyclists are often
forced to do. A small rear-view mirror is well worth considering.
You'll need to carry sufficient spare parts and be proficient at repairs; punctures, in particular, will be frequent. Take
at least four spare inner tubes, some tyre repair material and a spare tyre. Consider the number of tube patches you
might need, square it, and pack those too. Some people don't like them but we've found inner-tube protectors indispens-
able for minimising punctures.
Transporting Your Bicycle
If you're planning to bring your bike with you on the plane to West Africa, some airlines ask that you partially dismantle
it and put the pieces in a large bag or box. Bike boxes are available at some airports. Otherwise, you can arrange one in
advance with your local bicycle shop. To fit it in the box, you'll usually need to take off (or turn) the handlebars, pedals
and seat, and will need to deflate the tyres. Some airlines don't charge, while others (including many charter airlines)
levy an extra fee - usually around US$50 to US$100 - because bike boxes are not standard size. Some airlines are will-
ing to take your bike 'as is' - you can just wheel it to the check-in desk - although you'll still need to partially deflate
the tyres and tie the handlebars into the frame. Check with the airline in advance about their regulations.
Useful Resources
A highly recommended contact is Bicycle Africa ( www.ibike.org/bikeafrica ) , which is part of the International Bicycle
Fund, a low-budget, socially conscious organisation that arranges tours in some West African countries, provides fact
sheets and posts letters from travellers who've travelled by bike in the area. Another useful resource is the Cyclists'
Touring Club (CTC; 01483-238337; www.ctc.org.uk ) , a UK-based organisation which offers tips and information
sheets on cycling in different parts of the world.
Boat
At several points along the West African coast you can travel by boat, either on a large passenger vessel or by local ca-
noe. Some of the local canoe trips are definitely of the informal variety, and many are dangerous. Countries where fer-
ries provide an important means of coastal transport include Cape Verde, Senegal, Sierra Leone, Liberia and Guinea-
Bissau.
There are two ferries a week between Limbe (Cameroon) and Calabar (Nigeria). Unsafe speed boats also make the
trip. Other places where you can cross international borders by boat are by barge from Guinea to Mali and, possibly, by
ferry between Conakry (Guinea) and Freetown (Sierra Leone).
On most major rivers in the region, pirogues, pinasses (larger motorised boats, carrying cargo and anything from 10
to 100 passengers) and/or public ferries serve towns and villages along the way, and can be an excellent way to see the
country. Some involve a simple river crossing, others can be a longer expedition where you sleep by the riverbank. Ri-
verboat options include those along the Gambia and Senegal Rivers. Remember that many such journeys are only pos-
sible at certain times of the year (usually August to December) when water levels are still high enough after the rains.