Togo - West Africa - page 987

Hints
Although women will undoubtedly attract more attention than men, more often than not you'll meet only warmth and
hospitality, and find that you receive kindness and special treatment that you wouldn't be shown if you were a man.
While you're likely to hear some horror stories from expats who may be appalled at the idea of solo female travel, it's
worth remembering that the incidence of rape or other real harm is extremely rare.
It's important to not let these concerns ruin your trip. Remember that some sections of the region, such as parts of the
Sahel, are wonderfully hassle free. You'll also have the opportunity to meet local women, something that few male trav-
ellers have the chance to do on the same terms. Good places to try include tourist offices, government departments or
even your hotel, where at least some of the staff are likely to be formally educated young to middle-aged women. In rur-
al areas, starting points include female teachers at a local school, or staff at a health centre where language barriers are
less likely to be a problem.
That said, it's inevitable that you'll attract some unwanted attention. Here are a few tips:
» Dress modestly. This is the most successful strategy for minimising unasked-for male attention. Wear trousers or a
long skirt, and a conservative top with sleeves. Tucking your hair under a cap or tying it back, especially if it's blonde,
sometimes helps. Exposing your midriff is rarely a good idea.
» Use common sense. Trust your instincts and take the usual precautions when out. For example, if possible, avoid go-
ing out alone in the evenings, particularly on foot. Avoid isolated areas, roadways and beaches during both day and
evening hours, and be cautious on beaches, many of which can become deserted very quickly. Throughout the region,
hitching alone is not recommended.
» Don't worry about being rude, and don't feel the need to explain yourself. If you try to start explaining why you don't
want to meet for a drink/go to a nightclub/get married on the spot, it may be interpreted as flirting.
» Ignore hissing, calls of 'chérie', or whatever. If you respond, it may be interpreted as a lead on.
» Wear a wedding ring or carry photos of 'your' children, which will make you appear less 'available'.
» Avoid direct eye contact with local men; dark sunglasses help. There are, however, times when a cold glare is an ef-
fective riposte to an unwanted suitor.
» On public transport, sit next to a woman if possible.
» If you need help (eg directions), ask a woman first, although local women are less likely than men to have had an edu-
cation that included learning English.
» Go to the nearest public place, such as the lobby of a hotel, to get rid of any hangers-on. If they persist, asking the re-
ceptionist to call the police usually frightens them off.
'C'EST MADAME? OU BIEN, MADEMOISELLE?'
Women travelling on their own through Francophone West Africa will undoubtedly hear these words ad nauseam:
translated, the phrase means 'are you married or not?' Sometimes, for example when you're filling out forms or
registering at a hotel, it's not ill-intentioned. But, all too often, it's a leering soldier or border official who's a little
too eager for company. Although there's not much you can do to prevent the question, having at least a fictitious
husband - ideally one who will be arriving imminently at that very place - can help in avoiding further advances.
If you're travelling with a male companion, a good way to avoid unwanted interest is to introduce him as your
husband. If you're questioned as to why your husband/children aren't with you, explain that you'll be meeting
them later.