Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
End (8,070 feet). Ignore this and turn left to follow the JMT east up a small rise and
continue climbing gently toward Deer Meadow. It's advised, however, to pump wa-
ter before beginning this dry 800-foot climb.
Cross a verdant pasture of long grasses and traverse a sandy rise through sweet-
smelling sage bushes and horsetail ferns to reach Deer Meadow, thick with lodgepole
pines. Campsites begin appearing at the northern end of the meadow and continue
along its length. In the buggy season, Deer Meadow can feel like a dark and murky
swamp, and it's best to wait until the trail rises almost to the end of the meadow for
more-open sites with better access to water and fire pits. This is the last place to
camp before climbing up to the Palisade Lakes, so bear this in mind before forging
ahead.
Leaving Deer Meadow, ford Glacier Creek and begin the climb of the famed
Golden Staircase, an ascent of 1,700 feet over 3 miles with no accessible campsites.
As climbs go, it's incredibly well graded, and the consistent pitch allows for a certain
rhythm in your hiking. In fact, it's impossible not to appreciate the beauty of this en-
gineering feat that allows you (hopefully) to maintain a sense of humor while as-
cending Mather Pass. At times it seems impossible to determine how the trail will
wind its way up the steep granite peaks surrounding you. Interestingly, these granite
cut stairs were the last leg of the JMT to be completed. Fantastic views back toward
the valley provide the perfect excuse for a break to breathe in the fragrant sage. Cur-
rants and wildflowers line the staircase in a pleasantly distracting manner as well.
Ascend the first 1,000 feet in less than a mile and a half up carefully carved switch-
backs. Try to climb early or in the late afternoon before intense sun bakes the stone.
As the switchbacks lessen, come to a meadow surrounded by the soaring peaks
of the Palisades Group, where Lower Palisade Lake (10,613 feet) hides behind a low
rise. Surrounded by a cirque, the lake is deep and beautiful, but doesn't offer much
in the way of camping on the windy ridge. Skirt the lake briefly before beginning an-
other rocky, switchbacked climb. As you gain altitude, Upper Palisade Lake (10,679
feet) reveals herself on the rise, less than 100 feet higher than her sister lake. The
trail doesn't actually descend to the lake, but there is nice protected camping amid
the dwarfed white-bark pines, and plentiful water from Palisade Creek.
Continue rising and traverse a stream at 11,200 feet. This is a good place to stop
for water and sunscreen, as the next leg consists of dry, exposed, rocky switchbacks.
The landscape is a barren one of granite shards and a few snowmelt tarns. Be sure to
savor views back toward Palisade Lakes. It's difficult to see the path ahead as it
switchbacks smoothly up and back: an optical illusion of boulder-sized granite
chunks. At times the trail travels over fist-sized rocks and other times more finely
crushed pebbles. Named for the first head of the National Park Service, Stephen
