Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Find more campsites after the crossings. Break out into a more open granite area be-
fore heading back into the trees to begin your ascent to Evolution Lake. After cross-
ing the 10,000-foot marker, the climb stiffens to steep switchbacks. Happily, much of
the trail is coolly shaded for the beginning of the climb. Coming out of the trees,
continue on exposed rock switchbacks that will lead to Evolution Lake. Gorgeous
and stark, this is the beginning of one of the most spectacular stretches of the hike
through a barren region carved by ice some 10,000 years ago. Before reaching the
lake, cross a flowered meadow and enjoy the initial stunning views. Evolution Lake
(10,850 feet) is desolate and rocky but boasts a colorful display of fiery shooting
stars and eye-catching tiger lilies along its creek. There is limited camping among
clusters of white-bark pines on the lake's northern shore.
The naming of Evolution Lake is a bit of a California phenomenon, where in-
stead of famed leaders or religious figures, scientists, geneticists, and evolutionists
are honored. Most of the names in this region are thanks to Theodore S. Solomons,
an early explorer, photographer, and writer. Often called the “Pioneer of the John
Muir Trail,” Solomons was one of the first to traverse Evolution Valley in 1895 and
is credited with accurately surveying and mapping this stretch of Sierra topography.
His maps were instrumental in the trail's creation.
Enjoy a bit of respite as the trail flattens out on a moderate to gentle ascent to-
ward Sapphire Lake. Look for streaming waterfalls and wily marmots en route to the
second set of climbs. Cross over the river on an impressive path of well-placed large
stepping stones. Skirt Sapphire Lake, truly the color of its name, and begin a series
of switchbacks gaining altitude again along the hulking side of Mount Huxley. The
trail levels as you come up to an unnamed lake before the final climb up and over to
Wanda Lake (11,426 feet), so named for John Muir's eldest daughter. There is little
to no camping here, and the gnats are annoyingly friendly. Follow the northeast
shore of this deceptively long lake (stretching more than a mile) and begin a rocky
2.2-mile ascent up the barren granite-strewn country that lies ahead.
From here, look for the Muir hut at the top of the pass in the distance on a rocky
saddle in the Goddard Divide. Muir Pass is the only Sierra pass to boast a man-made
structure. The stone hut, built by the Sierra Club in 1931, is intended as a refuge for
hikers in inclement weather. The fireplace is stoned-in, but the unlocked emergency
shelter still offers protection from wind, ice, and rain. Be watchful of marauding
mice ever hopeful for a dropped peanut, however!
The hut comes in and out of view as you switchback up various rises. Dwarfed
by neighboring peaks of Mount Warlow and Mount Goddard, the pass shouldn't ap-
pear too high or intimidating, and indeed the initial ascent is rather gradual through
the stone rubble. The trail turns into a stony walkway with occasional rough-hewn
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