Agriculture Reference
In-Depth Information
savage after the Africanized bees of killer-bee fame. (None of the last two types would
do well in northern climes anyway.)
The type of bee that is best for your particular micro-climate is a source of endless
argument among beekeepers, some claiming that their savage little lot of black bees
are the best for the eastern Lincolnshire frosts or, others, that their yellow Italians can
gather twice as much honey (probably because they rob other hives) as any other bee
in the central Rutland fogs, even if they do need huge amounts of sugar syrup in the
winter. As I said before, as a general rule, unless you want to be a commercial beekeeper,
go for gentleness (in fact, go for this anyway), and many breeders will produce gentle
bees for you to buy as a nucleus. Contrary to much opinion, there is no scientifically
proven correlation between savageness and good honey collection.
What you do with this nucleus or package of gentle bees on Day 1 is discussed in
the next chapter. Just make sure (unlike me) that you have your beehives and other
equipment ready before the bees arrive.
In order to start beekeeping, you will ideally need the following items.
Two complete beehives (at least)
Use the most locally used, modern-style hive (but not the Layens hive in Spain
even if it is the most common). If in doubt use a Langstroth or local equivalent.
You will need at least one brood box (deep/full) and two supers (shallows, ¾
sized). Use a queen excluder to start beekeeping and use the frames as advised
above.
Use Hoffman frames in the brood box and Manley frames in the honey
boxes. Avoid frames that require plastic or metal frame spacers (although,
unfortunately, these often come with new hives so, despite what I've said,
