Agriculture Reference
In-Depth Information
There are as many arguments for choosing a particular hive as there are beekeepers.
The arguments could go on for ever and all are valid, so my advice is to by a universal
type of hive and, really, that is the Langstroth - unless your beekeeping is going to stay
at the small hobby level, in which case you can indulge yourself and buy something like
a WBC.
Many starter beekeepers buy second-hand hives from a local beekeeping association
and, in the UK, hives can be purchased at annual association auctions, and this is an
excellent way of starting. Not only can you buy equipment at these functions but you
can also buy bees. Second-hand equipment is usually very much cheaper than new
equipment and you can check whether the woodwork is sound.
The main disadvantage of this approach is that the kit may hold disease, and the main
disease that will worry you is American foul brood (AFB). The bacterium that causes
this disease has a spore or resting stage if the conditions are not right for its wellbeing.
These spores are tough and can stay on equipment for decades. When you put bees in
the empty hive, the AFB will resurrect itself and you will be in big trouble. This disease
spreads very easily and, from one contaminated hive, it will soon reach your other hives
and perhaps those of your neighbours. Eventually the government authorities will come
along and burn all your hives and bees. It is that serious.
So be very careful with second-hand kit. If you buy it, run a flame gun all over it, in the
cracks and corners and on the under-surfaces. Scorch the woodwork and kill any AFB
spores that may exist. Or you can soak the woodwork in potassium hypochlorite, which
also kills the AFB. For this, though, you will need a big tank and protective clothing.
It is best to scorch everything, while being very careful not to set light to anything.
Remember that wax and wood burn very easily.
