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Family-run Mogador is a long-running NYC classic, serving fluffy piles of coucous, char-
grilled lamb and merguez sausage over basmati rice and satisfying mixed platters of hum-
mus and babaganoush. The standouts, however, are the tagines. A garrulous young crowd
packs the space, spilling out onto the small cafe tables on warm days. Brunch (served
weekends 9am to 4pm) is excellent. (
212-677-2226; 101 St Marks Pl; mains lunch $8-14, dinner
$17-21;
9am-1am Sun-Thu, to 2am Fri & Sat;
6 to Astor Pl)
16 Upstate $$
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Small and often overlooked, Upstate nevertheless serves outstanding, market-fresh sea-
food dishes and craft beers. Celebrate all things surf with the likes of beer-steamed mus-
sels, soul-coaxing seafood stew, sweet softshell crab and plump, silky oysters.
( www.upstatenyc.com ; 95 First Ave, btwn 5th & 6th Sts; mains $15-30;
SEAFOOD
5-11pm;
F to 2nd Ave)
17 Angelica Kitchen $$
VEGAN, CAFE
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This enduring herbivore classic has a calming vibe - candles, tables both intimate and
communal, and a mellow, longtime staff - and enough creative options to make your head
spin. Some dishes get too-cute names (Goodnight Mushroom, Thai Mee Up), but all do
wonders with tofu, seitan, spices and soy products, and sometimes an array of raw in-
gredients. (
212-228-2909; www.angelicakitchen.com ; 300 E 12th St, btwn First & Second Aves; dishes $11-19;
11:30am-10:30pm;
;
L to 1st Ave)
18 Calliope $$
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This rustic-chic charmer serves French farmhouse comfort fare - though given a modern
twist. The menu is small, and the dishes are surprisingly well executed: spicy mackerel
with avocado and black sesame, beef tongue with pickled onions, delicate rabbit pappar-
delle, and a marvelously tender tĂȘte du porc (pig's head). Less adventurous eaters can opt
for crispy roast chicken, Newport steak and mussels. (84 E 4th St, at Second Ave; mains lunch $12-17,
FRENCH
dinner $26-39;
5-11pm Mon, 11am-2:30pm & 5-11pm Tue-Sat, 10:30am-3pm & 5-10pm Sun;
F to 2nd Ave)
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