Agriculture Reference
In-Depth Information
Pruning out too much growth at planting can
inhibit establishment. Gauge the vigour of
your tree and prune accordingly. Apart from
removing very weak wood, competing leaders
or crossed branches, the structure can be
refined after the tree's first season in the
ground. By this time its root system should
have established well.
least two tiers of side branches. This pruning
point will be roughly the centre of your ball-
shaped canopy (see Figure 5.7).
The side branches should be cut back by
approximately a third to encourage
branching. These will form the basis of the
tree's framework. In spring and summer, any
vertical growth should be discouraged and cut
to within two buds of the framework branches,
and crossing or crowded growth should be
removed (see individual entries, pages 143-
179, for how to manage specific fruit trees and
long-term maintenance pruning).
Standardandbush-trained
These shapes are only differentiated by the
length of the trunk. A 'standard' tree
generally has a much longer trunk before
the business of branches and leaves begin
(see Figure 5.4). Although undoubtedly
elegant, a long trunk topped with a dense
canopy carrying fruit should not be
attempted on windy or exposed sites and
may often need a sturdy stake to secure it in
the ground. An unstaked tree may lose its
entire canopy if unsupported. A bush tree
has a much lower centre of gravity as the
canopy is closer to the ground, so complete
canopy loss is unlikely. Consider your site and
choose accordingly. Depending on the space
available vigorous or dwarfing rootstocks may
be used; however, for standard trees,
dwarfing stock well-staked is recommended.
Spindlesandpyramids-acentralleader
These two styles are again a variation on a
theme (see Figure 5.5). They both have a
central leader with side branches being longer
near the ground and becoming progressively
shorter as they ascend the central trunk. These
shapes are best attempted on trees grafted to a
dwarfing rootstock. Pyramids are less formal
than spindles and require less training.
Spindles are a formal shape akin to espalier,
with branches trained to the horizontal to
produce the maximum amount of fruit.
Strings attached to weights or fastened to a
trellis or stake in the ground keep the
branches growing horizontally. Soft plant
ties attached to baling twine fastened to a
lump of wood or a brick is ideal. They can
easily be moved out of the way of mowers
and then replaced (see Figure 5.5); however,
spindle trees that are not trained to a trellis,
have long basal branches that can break if
they are unsupported. This is especially so
when carrying a full crop; temporary props
may be needed.
Start with a feathered maiden or whip (see
Figure 5.1), and when established, gradually
remove the side branches to the height off the
ground desired. This may take a few seasons.
Removing too much growth all at once will
eliminate the food-producing leaves that
speed establishment. Shorten back any side
growths that are competing with the central
leader. In winter when the uppermost
branches have reached the total desired
height, cut out the central leader leaving at
