Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
settlement of 6 Büyükkonuk (Komi), Cyprus' first eco village, with restored traditional buildings and an old
olive mill. After you've tried some local almonds and figs, take the old road east to the village of 7 Sazlikoy
(Livadia) and the 6th-century ruins of Panagias tis Kryas church. The road northeast takes you to the vineyards of
8 Mehmetcik (Galateia) village and its 95-proof zivania 9 . Leave via the main northeasterly road (not the stadi-
um road) through the centre of the Karpas, and travel 16km through fields and groves to reach a Balalan
(Plantanissos). Continue southwest another 3km to b Ziyamet (Leonarisso). Carry on past the crossroads in Kar-
pas Anayolu and past Gelincik (Vasili) to the village of c Boltasli (Lythrangomi). Here you'll find the 6th-cen-
tury church of Panagia Kanakaria. It's kept locked but the village muhtar (elected leader) has the key. Ask around
to find him. From here a road joins a string of small villages, Derince, Avtepe and Kuruova, with a series of un-
marked tracks that lead to ancient cliff-tombs and the Bronze Age stronghold of d Nitovikla (3km away) on the
southern coast. Ask at the villages for the best paths to hike. Hop back in the car and go east to e Kaleburnu
(Galinoporni), where you can grab a bite and take the beach track to Skoutari (Üsküdar) for a refreshing swim.
Dipkarpaz (Rizokarpaso)
Pop 3500
This is the peninsula's largest and most remote village, where a large contemporary
mosque sits next to an old Orthodox church. The church is a silent companion, as its bell
is no longer tolled, although a small number of Greek Cypriots still live in the village. The
once thriving town is now mostly populated by mainland Turks and Kurds, who work the
land and live in difficult rural conditions.
A small ring of shops and a petrol station are the only real facilities and the last chance
to fill up. Manolyam Restaurant (mains 20-30YTL) sits right next to the Karpaz Arch
Houses, 500m from the village centre. It serves traditional Turkish-style food and a small
but filling array of mixed meze.
PROTECTING THE WILDERNESS
In 1983, 150 sq km of the Karpas region, from the municipality of Dipkarpaz (Rizokarpaso) to Zafer Burnu (Cape
Apostolos Andreas), was declared a national park by Turkish Cypriot authorities. Since then, encroaching devel-
opment and the building boom of 2004, in anticipation of the island's unification, saw nearby places like Bafra
and Yenierenköy (Yiallousa) build new hotels and resort complexes. This rapid development has conservationists
deeply concerned about the sustainability of the region's greater environment, particularly its unique wildlife,
plant life, undiscovered archaeological sites and rugged beaches.
Now lobby groups, biologists and environmentalists are banding together and pushing for an extension to the
park's boundaries to include Ronas Bay (north of Dipkarpaz). They want a commitment to adhere to stricter
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