Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
A trip to the exposed northwestern tip of Northern Cyprus, known as Koruçam Burnu (Cape Kormakitis), is a
fantastic day excursion from Kyrenia, with a number of deserted beaches on the way. Pack a picnic lunch, and en-
joy the solitude at the cape and its surrounds. Apart from being the 'land's end', it is also home to one of Cyprus'
least-known religious communities, the Maronites.
During the 4th century, Maronites broke away from the prevailing Orthodox religious theory of Christianity,
which said God was both man and god. In contrast, they followed the Monophysite religious line, which states
that God could only be viewed as one spiritual persona.
Persecuted by Orthodox Christians for their beliefs, they first sought refuge in Lebanon and Syria, before
coming to Cyprus in the 12th century in the wake of the crusaders, whom they had helped as auxiliaries in the
Holy Land campaign.
Post-1974 the Cypriot Maronites have clung to a tenuous existence in Koruçam village, where they still main-
tain a church. Over the years, the once-vigorous congregation has gradually left, and now barely 100 remain to
keep the old traditions and religion alive. The Maronites, like the Armenians and Latin religious communities,
had to choose allegiance with either the Greek or Turkish communities in the 1960s. They chose the Greeks, and
since '74 the youth from the village has gradually all but disappeared, crossing over into the South to study in
Greek schools. Those who remained in the North have managed to tread the fine line between political and reli-
gious allegiances, with some degree of success. Pre-2003 their relatives from the South were even able to visit
them on weekends. Since the borders have opened, the South's Maronites visit for longer periods. Many hope that
some of the younger generations will return to live here, preserving the village and its people's traditions.
Getting here is pretty simple, with a mostly paved road taking you almost all the way. It's best tackled as a
loop starting from the northern end of the Kyrenia-Güzelyurt road, at the junction after the village of Karşıyaka
(Vasileia).
From the junction follow the signs to Sadrazamköy (Livera). On your right you will see signs to petite Horse
Shoe Beach and
Horseshoe Beach Restaurant
(
%
861 6664; Horseshoe Beach ; grills & fish 8YTL;
h
11am-8pm), perfect spots for lunch and a swim.
To get to the cape, follow the winding road for 10km past Sadrazamköy; from here you find a 3.5km dirt
track, which is easily driven with a conventional car. There are bare rocks, a solar-powered shipping beacon and a
small rocky islet just offshore. This is the island's closest point to Turkey, which is a mere 60km across the sea.
For a different and interesting drive back, go via the picturesque inland loop road, through Koruçam village
and past the massive Maronite Church of Agios Georgios, built in 1940 with funds raised by the villagers.
Koruçam's Maronites have kept their dialect of Aramaic (the forgotten language of Christ) for hundreds of
years, interlacing it with Greek, Turkish, French and Italian words, creating a richer version of their own lan-
guage. While most communicate in this dialect or Turkish, some locals at the small coffee shop in Koruçam vil-
lage speak Greek.
The final leg back to the Kyrenia-Güzelyurt road is through a Turkish military area, with checkpoints at
which you may be stopped. Once past, get on the main highway at Çamlibel (Myrtou) and head back to Kyrenia.
From here you can also go south to Güzelyurt or turn southeast toward North Nicosia (Lefkoşa).
