Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
the bluff, one of the region's most popular seafood restaurants, Saint George's Fish Tav-
ern ( % 2662 1888; Agios Georgios; mains €13; h 9am-11pm) . Due to the restaurant's location right
above the harbour, the fish here is the best in the region - and you know it's good when
it's just grilled, with nothing but some olive oil and lemon. The squid and octopus are
similarly superb. Weekends get busy and, despite the vast terrace, you may have to queue
for a table, but you can enjoy the sea views while you wait. The owners also have a few
rooms to rent.
The adjacent large open space is popular at sunset and a small daily market held here
sells ceramics and deli-style products. There is also a modest archaeological site nearby,
with ruins of a 6th-century basilica church, including a partly visible mosaic floor, and
several rock-hewn tombs dating from the Roman period. Access times are a hit-and-miss
affair.
Dhrousia, Kritou Terra & Around
Pop 390 & 90
Once you are up in the heights, you will come across a series of villages that enjoy a cool
climate, grow fine wine grapes and are truly picturesque. They also make a useful altern-
ative base for travellers wishing to avoid the clamour of the coast further south.
Particularly appealing are the villages of Dhrousia and Kritou Terra with good places
to stay, eat, drink and simply watch the world go by.
Dhrousia is a village of winding streets, moustached men sitting outside the kafeneio
(coffee shop), lofty fig trees offering their fruit to passers-by, and an occasional donkey
standing nonchalantly on the cobbles. Fortunately, the newish modern hotel sitting
grandly on the outskirts of the village has not detracted too much from the sense of off-
the-beaten-track tranquillity here.
Kritou Terra, a little east from Dhrousia, is an unspoilt village with some splendid tradi-
tional houses tastefully renovated by their inhabitants; several have been reborn as atmo-
spheric places to stay. The late-Byzantine church of Agia Ekaterini, at the southern end of
the village, is worth a photo.
Three other villages, not far from Dhrousia and Kritou Terra, are unspoilt Inia (popula-
tion 350), Miliou (population 60) and Goudi (population 160), which also have places to
stay.
1 Sights
Kouyiouka Watermill HISTORIC BUILDING
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