The Minho - Portugal - page 948

There are now dozens of guesthouses set on the ridge encircling the Albufeira de Can-
içada, but none have a more spectacular setting than the lovely Pousada do Gerês-Caniçada/São
Bento ( 253 649 150; www.pousadas.pt ; Caniçada; s/d €160/170; ) . High above the Albu-
feira, it offers a splendid retreat at eagle's-nest heights. The rooms have wood-beamed
ceilings and comfy furnishings, and some have verandahs with magnificent views. There's
a pool, gardens, a tennis court and an excellent restaurant serving local delicacies (eg
trout, roasted goat). To get there, head south 3km from Rio Caldo, along the N304, fol-
lowing signs to Caniçada.
OFF THE BEATEN TRACK
BEAUTY BEYOND: BARROSO
This small northeast region of upper Trás-os-Montes, shared by the Montalegre and Boticas municipalities, packs
a punch with its pretty villages where time seems to have stood still for centuries and endangered Iberian wolves
roam the thick oak forests. It's known to have some of the best fumeiro (smoked meats) in the entire region,
mainly due to the cold and dry climate and the food the villagers give the pigs, such as chestnuts, pumpkin and
cabbage. Particularly good are the alheira , chouriço de abóbora and sangueira sausages. Also look out for fei-
joada à transmontana or leitão à transmontana , both traditional dishes involving pork.
Of the villages in the region, Pitões das Júnias is the most scenic, set on a plateau surrounded by endless
mountain vistas. It has an ancient monastery nearby, Santa Maria das Júnias, and a pretty waterfall, both an easy
hike away. Several village houses have rooms to rent, including the best-known restaurant, Casa do Preto (
276 566 158; www.casadopreto.com ; Pitões das Júnias; s/d €40/50; ) , which makes mean cabrito and
Barroso beef steaks (mains €7.50 to €10); the eight rooms above the restaurant are clean and spacious with big
bathrooms. Don't miss Taberna Terra Celta (Largo do Eiro; 9am-midnight Tue-Sun) on the main village
square, in an old wooden and stone home with an upstairs fireplace. On weekends it serves fumeiro , soups and
salads; otherwise it's a great stop for a drink. Make sure you grab some rye bread at the village bakery and some
jars of heather honey, available for sale in restaurants.
Another great lodging option in Barroso is Casa dos Braganças ( 276 579 138;
www.casadosbragancas.com ; Rua dos Braganças 8-10, Tourém; s/d €45/60; ) in the village of Tourém , a
delightful rural inn run by a friendly live-in family. Inside this 18th-century house, rooms feature original details
such as handpainted ceilings, stone walls, custom-made wood furniture and countryside views. There are free
bikes, great birdwatching in the area (featuring some rare birds) and dinners on request.
For excellent nature tours of Barroso and beyond, but with focus on Trás-os-Montes, turn to Portugal Eco-
tourism ( 259 433 146; www.portugalecotourism.pt ) , a nature tourism specialist that offers short and multi-
day hikes, biking jaunts and wildlife- watching trips. The wolf tour is particularly interesting.
CAMPO DO GERÊS
POP 160 / ELEV 690M
Campo do Gerês (called São João do Campo on some maps, and just Campo by most) is a
humble huddle of stone houses high in the mountains in the middle of a wide, grassy