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horses shod in smoky blacksmith shops. You can get the good kind of lost amid the hard-
handed, open-hearted shepherds of old Portugal, who still maintain the practice of moving
livestock, and even entire villages, to high pastures for up to five months each year. Yet,
despite joint governmental and private initiatives, this rustic scene is in danger of fading
away, as young people head for the cities, and village populations continue to shrink. The
steeper, more pristine Serra do GerĂªs sees the most tourism, in the form of hiking and wa-
ter sports such as kayaking and rafting.
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