The Minho - Portugal - page 934

in the 17th-century staff annexe are older and cosier. There's a fantastic 1730s chapel with
a gilded altar, and the pool is glorious. Reserve via www.manorhousesofportugal.com .

Casa da Breia
( 258 751 751; www.casadabreia.com ; São Paio de Jolda; cottage €60-110; ) This sweeping
17th-century quinta , nestled in a village just 10km from Arcos, is owned by a sweet fam-
ily who offer the charming, historic stone cottages (former staff quarters) to guests. The
hosts offer terrific tips for visiting the nearby national park.

RURAL INN $$

PROTECTED AREAS OF PENEDA-GERÊS

The government is working hard to ensure that Peneda-Gerês' largely undisturbed ecosystems remain that way.
To help protect the area the park has a high-elevation inner zone, partly set aside for research and closed to the
public, and an outer buffer zone, where development is controlled. Most villages, roads, tracks and trails are in
the latter area.
The most assiduously protected area is the Mata de Albergaria, north of Vila do Gerês. Ironically, it's crossed
by the N308 highway, which, because it serves an EU-appointed border crossing, cannot simply be closed. Mo-
torised traffic is tolerated on a 6km stretch of road above Gerês but travellers are forbidden to linger. At check-
points at either end, drivers must pay €1.50 to enter the road from June to September. Daily patrols ensure that
motorists don't park on the road. Two side roads are also no-go areas for non-residents: southwest down the Rio
Homem valley and east from Portela do Homem into the high Serra do Gerês.
Campers must use designated sites or risk the wrath of park rangers. There are also restrictions on the type of
boats allowed in the park's albufeiras (reservoirs), and no boats at all are allowed on the Vilarinho das Furnas and
Paradela. Even swimming is prohibited in Vilarinho das Furnas.

Eating

BAKERY $

Doçaria Central
( 258 515 215; Rua General Norton de Matos 47; pastries €1; breakfast & lunch) Founded in 1830, this
wonderful confectioner stocks the town's favourite sweet, rebuçados dos arcos (enorm-
ous, jaw-breaking, hard-boiled sweets), and pastry, charutos dos arcos (preserved egg
wrapped in a sugary dough). To get here take the street to the right of the tourist office,
past the post office.

Minho Verde
(Rua Mário Júlio Almeida Costa 37; mains €6-16; lunch & dinner Mon-Sat) One of Arcos' finest restaur-
ants is in an unlikely location in an ugly block down the waterfront from the turismo .
However, it serves excellent Minho specialities ranging from posta de vitela (veal steak)

PORTUGUESE $$