Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Zip past the tacky gift shops and towel merchants, and follow the cobbled lanes to the
far end of the larger northern fortress, which incorporates Dom Afonso's original strong-
hold and contains almost everything else that's of interest. From Praça da República bear
right, then left, into Rua Guilherme José da Silva (which turns into Rua Dr Pedro Augusto
Dias). On the left, opposite the post office, is the
Casa da Eira
, with a handsome Manueline
window somewhat marred by a horrendous corrugated tin room that peeks above the
crenulated walls. The 14th-century
Igreja de Santo Estevão
, with its neoclassical facade, is at
the end of the street. From the church, take a left and you'll see the 1st-century Roman
milestone from the old Braga-Astorga road.
From the milestone continue north to the end of Rua José Rodrigues and the now-de-
crepit Romanesque parish church,
Igreja de Santa Maria dos Anjos
(Church of St Mary of the
Angels), dating from 1276. At the back is a tiny
chapel
with Romano-Gothic inscriptions
on the outside. To the left of the parish church is the
Capela da Misericórdia
and beyond it the
Pousada de São Teotónio.
But the best fun can be had rambling on and around the series of exterior walls. In fact,
if you turn right by the
pousada
you'll descend the atmospheric lane through one of the
original gates
, with a trickling stream running below, and an impressive echo. Keep going
and you'll pass through several thick, mossy layers to the outside world.
Sleeping
GUESTHOUSE
$
Residencial Portas do Sol
( 251 837 134;
www.residencialportasdosol.com
; Rua Conselheiro Lopes da Silva 51; s/d €30/45; )
One of two options in the fortress is set in an antiquated stone building that's been refur-
bished and outfitted with all things IKEA-esque, but that's not necessarily a bad thing.
The ceilings are high, and the old stone window frames lend enough old-world panache.
It's in the north fort, a half block from the bridge.
Hotel Lara
( 251 824 348;
www.hotellara.com
; Av dos Bombeiros Voluntarios; s/d €35/45; )
The ageing
bones of this business hotel in the new town cloak some great-value and spacious rooms,
with Japanese wallpaper and tremendous views from the upper reaches. It's directly op-
posite the fort.
HOTEL
$
Pousada de São Teotónio
LUXURY HOTEL
$$$
