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side and beyond it to some of the best coastal views in Portugal. Common areas are splen-
did, while the rooms themselves are comfortable, if less inspired than the views.
Eating
Viana do Castelo whips up some excellent seafood - among the region's best. Although
you can find fresh fish at restaurants throughout the old town, the best joints are around
the old fishing quarter on the west side of town.
Freguez
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CAFE $
(Rua do Poço 42; snacks €1.50-7; 10am-2am daily Jun-Oct, noon-midnight Mon-Tue, noon-2am Wed-Sat Nov-
May) A cool cafe-bar with a fado soundtrack, hip vibe and outdoor tables on the pedestrian
lane. Also sells a few Portuguese edibles (wine, sardines, jam) and handicrafts, and serves
delicious petiscos . There are occasional fado concerts and poetry readings.
Dolce Vianna
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( 258 824 860; Rua do Poço 44; pizzas €6-7.25; lunch & dinner) This popular pizzeria buzzes at
lunch time, when there's a special weekday menu for €5.50 and a range of cheesy thick-
crust pizzas churned out of the wood- burning oven in the corner. It also has a set of pleas-
ant clean rooms upstairs.
PIZZA $
O Marques
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PORTUGUESE $
(Rua do Marques 72; meals from €5.50; lunch & dinner Mon-Fri, lunch Sat) Another tremendous back-
street find, this place is absolutely jammed with locals for the platos do dia (plates of the
day; €5.50). Think baked cod with white beans or roasted turkey leg with potatoes and
salad. It's a friendly, satisfying, family-run affair.
Confeitaria Natário
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(Rua Manuel Espregueira 37; pastries €2-3) This popular bakery is the place to try the delicious
bolas de Berlim (cream-filled donuts), which are so good that you may have to wait in line
to get some.
BAKERY $
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