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of oatmeal-, cookie- or bubblegum-flavoured ice creams, and great cupcakes and coffees,
too.
Mercado da Saudade
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(Rua Dom Paio Mendes 59; snacks €2-3.50; 10am-8pm Wed-Thu, 10am-1am Fri & Sat, 2-7pm Sun ) Colourful
little grocery store-cafe with a few storefront and sidewalk tables, where you can buy a
variety of Portuguese products - from cork items, shoes and soaps to edibles such as
chocolates and sardines. The snacks are delicious; try the Portuguese pork sandwich and
wash it down with a glass of wine or Sovina, the local handcrafted beer.
CAFE $
Livraria Centésima Página
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CAFE $
(Av Central 118-120; snacks €2.60-4.90; 9am-7.30pm Mon-Sat) Tucked inside Centésima Página, an
absolutely splendid bookshop with foreign-language titles, this charming cafe serves a ro-
tating selection of tasty quiches along with salads and desserts, and has outdoor tables in
the pleasantly rustic garden. The lunch specials are a steal.
Silvas
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(Largo do Terreiro do Castelo; mains €6-8; lunch & dinner Mon-Sat, lunch Sun) Cosy little spot in the
shadow of Torre de Menagem, this has a narrow glass-enclosed interior with a counter and
a few tables outside. The well- prepared dishes change daily and include duck rice, rolled
veal and always a fresh fish dish.
PORTUGUESE $
Taberna Velhos Tempos
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(Rua do Carmo 7; mains €7.50-11; lunch & dinner Mon-Sat) Rustic tavern with wooden beams, lots
of bric-a-brac and a menu of tasty mainstays. Try the bacalhau con natas or duck rice.
The portions are huge so order only half.
PORTUGUESE $
Frigideiras do Cantinho
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CAFE $
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