Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
MATEUS REVISITED
If 'Mateus' conjures up images of sickly sweet pink 'starter wine' and ubiquitous 1970s wine-bottles-as-candle-
holders, think again and try a sip of Alvarelhão. This distinctive Portuguese grape is the original base for Mateus
rosé, which in the 1950s was retooled for mass marketing in North America, where palates were considerably less
sophisticated. Now the growers and vintners of Lavradores de Feitoria, whose numbers include the current Count
of Vila Real and heir to the famous Palácio de Mateus itself, are producing an Alvarelhão rosé that more fully
honours the legacy of this uniquely Iberian varietal.
Some growers describe Alvarelhão as a grape that is impractical and near-impossible to grow. It matures late,
well into October, and is easy prey to mildews and other pathogens - so much so that growers traditionally grew
it closest to their homes and estates so they could be more easily alerted to possible outbreaks of disease. As one
Lavradores producer puts it, 'Here in Portugal, we love tradition. But we are not efficient. We are not practical.
We grow something because our fathers and our grandfathers and their grandfathers did. It's said that because of
this we still have hundreds of varietals which have died out in other places. So we are still growing this Alvarel-
hão because we love it.'
Because of its temperamental nature, Alvarelhão - like many of Portugal's best wines - is bottled in small
quantities, mostly for use in Portugal. Until these delicious and deserving wines get wider international distribu-
tion, do yourself a favour while touring the Palácio de Mateus (
Click here
) and sip it while you can!
Entertainment
Although there isn't a lot going on in Foz Côa, the
Centro Cultural
( 279 760 324;
www.fozcoactiva.pt
;
Av Cidade Nova 2)
hosts concerts, temporary art exhibitions and film screen-
ings throughout the year. It's in the same building as the
turismo
.
Information
Biblioteca Municipal de Vila Nova de Foz Côa
(
279 760 300; Av Cidade Nova 2;
9am-noon & 2-5.30pm
Mon-Fri)
Free internet access in the same building as the
turismo
.
9am-12.30pm & 2-5.30pm)
Op-
Municipal Turismo
(
279 760 329;
www.cm-fozcoa.pt
; Av Cidade Nova 2;
posite Albergaria Foz Côa.
Getting There & Away
One daily bus connects Vila Nova de Foz Côa with Bragança (€8.30, 1¾ hours) and an-
other with Miranda do Douro (€6, 2½ hours). Three buses per day travel via Trancoso
(€4.40) from Viseu (€9.20, two hours).
Five daily trains run to Pocinho, at the end of the Douro valley line, from Porto
(€10.65, 3½ hours) and Peso da Régua (€6) through Pinhão (€3.20). A taxi between Po-
cinho and Vila Nova de Foz Côa costs about €6 to €8, and there are two daily buses (€2 to
€4.40, 20 minutes).
