Porto, the Douro & Trás-os-Montes - Portugal - page 810

DRINKING IN THE DOURO

Pinhão offers some enticing exploring for wine-lovers, with picturesque 18th-century manor houses overlooking
steeply terraced vineyards leading down to the Rio Douro. To explore the quintas on your own, you'll need a
vehicle. Ask the tourist office in Peso da Régua about lodges open for tours and tastings. A few good places to
start the viticultural journey:

Quinta do Panascal ( 254 732 321; www.fonseca.pt ; tours €3; 10am-6pm daily May-Oct, 10am-6pm
Mon-Fri Nov-Apr) Producer of Fonseca ports, this lovely estate offers self-guided audio tours (in many lan-
guages) through some beautifully situated vineyards, with a tasting of three wines. It's located about 10 minutes'
drive west of Pinhão, well signed from the N222.

Quinta do Portal ( 259 937 000; www.quintadoportal.com ; tours €5; 10am-7pm daily mid-May-mid-
Oct) This award-winning vineyard produces ports, red and white table wines, and a little-known muscatel wine.
The surrounding region is one of the only places in the country producing muscatel (the other is Setúbal). Tours
include a visit to the cellar with a tasting of three wines. There's a restaurant and guest house (doubles from
€125). The winery lies about 12km north of Pinhão, along EN323, in the direction of Vila Real. Call ahead.

Quinta do Crasto ( 934 920 024; www.quintadocrasto.pt ; tours €18; 9am-6pm Mon-Fri) They've been
making wine since 1615 on this gorgeous property set high in the Alto Douro with delicately laced vineyards
overlooking the river and layers of mountains. Their dusty hounds are sweet, the wine is special and they do re-
ceive guests, but only during the week and with advance reservation. The tour includes a tasting of five wines.

Quinta Seara D'ordens ( 254 906 415; www.searadordens.com ; tours & tasting €5; 9am-noon & 2-6pm
daily) A 60-hectare property run by three charming brothers who make some of the most quaffable and affordable
table wines in the valley. Make an appointment and they'll guide you through their product line, pouring glass
after glass, and if you buy a bottle the tasting is free.

Quinta do Tedo ( 934 609 671; www.quintadotedo.com ; 10am-7pm daily) Blessed with sublime real es-
tate carved by two rivers - the Douro and Tedo - this American-French-Portuguese-owned estate is equipped
with a restaurant and winery, which you can see on a short 20-minute tour with eight excellent table wines and a
port to sample in the tasting room. Be warned, they do get some package tourists, but service is excellent even for
indie types.

Sleeping

Hotel Dom Quixote
( 254 321 151; [e-mail]; 1st fl, Av Sacadura Cabral 1; s/d €30/45; ) Located
1.5km west of the turismo, the modern Dom Quixote is arguably Régua's best budget op-
tion. It offers simple but comfortable - if forgettable - rooms.

HOTEL €

Hotel Régua Douro
( 254 320 700; www.hotelreguadouro.pt ; Largo da Estação; s/d €70/88; ) This industrial-
sized hotel sits by the river and is steps from the train station. It has plush, carpeted rooms

HOTEL €€