Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Sogevinus wine
( 916 372 896; www.sogevinus.com ; Av Ramos Pinto 280; tastings per glass €1.30-22.50; 10am-7pm May-
Oct, 10am-6pm Mon-Fri Nov-Apr) Sogevinus is the port-wine holding company that owns the
Kopke label, among others. Founded in 1638, Kopke is the oldest brand on the hill, but its
lodge is not open to the public. Which is why you should stop here for the smooth cara-
melised bite of a seriously good aged tawny. The 10-year is tasty; the 20-year is spectacu-
lar.
TASTING
Afurada & Praia Estrela
do Mar
Near the mouth of the Rio Douro, the picturesque, traditional fishing village of Afurada
has salt in the blood and fog on the nose. Houses are decked with azulejos and cafes are
redolent with hearty caldeirada (fish stew). This old-fashioned way of life is depicted in
Pedro Neves' 2007 documentary A Olhar O Mar ( Gazing out to Sea ).
There are several ways to get here. You can take a tram from Ribeira to the stop just
west of the Ponte da Arrábida, then catch a small ferry (per person/bicycle €1/1; 6am-midnight)
across the river to the village. Alternatively, buses 93 and 96 from Cordoaria stop just
across the bridge in Vila Nova de Gaia. From here, it's a short walk along the boardwalk
to Afurada.
Or you could rent a bicycle, propel yourself to the ferry, and continue west. You'll
come upon the last swath of intact estuary, which runs into the back of a wide blonde
beach that arcs perfectly to receive rolling surf.
Soft, golden, sheltered Praia Estrela do Mar is the best swimming beach in Porto. It's a
15-minute bike ride or 40-minute walk from Afurada, or you can take bus 902 from Boa
Vista bound for Lavadores (via Ponte Arrábida), get off at the pedestrian path and walk
800m south.
 
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