The Beiras - Portugal - page 731

WORTH A TRIP
AROUND THE PLANALTO

While Trancoso and Almeida are the quintessential Planalto fortress-villages, three other towns are well worth a
gander, though only if you have your own wheels - bus connections would be maddening in this sparsely popu-
lated region. With a car, you could see all three in a single, long day.
Located 30km northwest of Trancoso, Sernancelhe has a wonderfully preserved centre fashioned out of warm,
beige-coloured stone. Sights include a 13th-century church that boasts Portugal's only free-standing Romanesque
sculpture; an old Jewish quarter with crosses to mark the homes of the converted; several grand 17th- and 18th-
century town houses, one of which is believed to be the birthplace of the Marquês de Pombal; and hills that
bloom with what are considered to be Portugal's best chestnuts.
Heading northeast another 16km, you arrive at little Penedono , with its small but splendid castle (

9.30am-6pm Oct-Mar, 10am-7pm Apr-Sep) . This irregular hexagon, with its picturesque crenellation,
has fine views over the Planalto. It probably dates back to the 13th century and is a remarkable sight. The tur-
ismo ( 9am-1pm & 2-5pm Mon-Fri, 9am-12.30pm & 2.30-5pm Sat, 2.30-5pm Sun) is below the castle.
Perhaps most impressive of all is Marialva , 25km southeast of Penedono. The beautiful upper part of the old
town is dominated by a forbidding, 12th-century castelo (castle; adult/15-25yr €1.50/0.75, Sun morning free;
10am-1pm & 3-7pm May-Sep, 9.30am-12.30pm & 2-6pm Oct-Apr) that guards over the rugged valley of the Rio
Côa. Below its walls lies a haunting little village populated almost exclusively by black-clad widows knitting in
the timeless shade. The castle ticket office functions as the turismo .
If you want to make an overnight trip of it, consider staying at Sernancelhe's 17th-century Casa da Comenda
de Malta ( 254 559 189; www.casadacomendademalta.com ; d from €65; ) , near the church in the old
town, with well-equipped rooms, walled gardens and a pool. In Penedono, Residencial Flora ( 254 504 411;
[e-mail]; Bairro do Prazo, Penedono; s/d €20/35) , a short walk downhill from the castelo,
offers plain but modern rooms with bathroom. The downstairs restaurant serves hearty Portuguese fare (mains €8
to €10). The hotel opposite the castle has a great location but mixed reviews from readers. Marialva has several
appealing options, including the cushiest digs of all, at the luxurious Casas do Côro ( www.casasdocoro.com.pt ;
s/d from €130/145; ) , with a great location on the cobbled square by the castle.

Sleeping
Ask at the turismo about quartos for rent.

Residencial Dom Dinis
( 271 811 525; www.domdinis.net ; Av da República 10; s/d/tr €24/32/41; ) In a drab apartment
block behind the post office, the Dom Dinis has spotless, if spiritless, remodelled rooms
with wooden floors, plus a downstairs bar and restaurant. Breakfast is an extra €4.50 per
person.

GUESTHOUSE €

Hotel Turismo de Trancoso

HOTEL €€