Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
( 232 423 511;
www.hotelgraovasco.pt
;
Rua Gaspar Barreiros; s/d €65/75; )
It's a little
retro, but there's something nice about this huge old-school place, with black noticeboards
with white clip-on letters and weird items for sale in a dusty display case. The service is
good and the low-bedded rooms are pretty comfortable. Go for one on the top floor if
available - if not, grab one on the garden side of the building.
Pousada de Viseu
HOTEL
€€€
( 232 457 320;
www.pousadas.pt
; Rua do Hospital; s €110, d €120-144; )
This superbly
refashioned
pousada
is set in a monumental 19th-century hospital and is a top luxury op-
tion. The original three floors, all with ridiculously high ceilings and spacious rooms,
have been enhanced with a 4th floor dedicated to special suites with panoramic terraces.
The enormous central courtyard, complete with bar, is a neoclassical delight, while the el-
egant former pharmacy has been converted into a cosy lounge. Indoor and outdoor pools,
plus spa complex complete the picture. Excellent value.
Eating
O Hilário
(Rua Augusto Hilário 35; mains €5-9; lunch & dinner Mon-Sat)
Fantastically friendly and welcoming,
this slice of old Portugal is named for the 19th-century fado star who once lived down the
street. Great value
doses
(portions) will feed one hungry person, but halves are available
for lighter appetites. If your favourite grandparents owned a restaurant this would be it.
PORTUGUESE
€
Casa dos Queijos
(Travessa das Escadinhas da Sé 7; mains €6-9; lunch & dinner Mon-Sat)
Despite the owner's rather gruff
attitude, this stone-walled old place, hidden up narrow stairs, gets top marks for atmo-
sphere and for its carefully prepared grills and
cozidos
(stews). The shop downstairs,
stacked high with tempting wines and cheeses, is a neighbourhood hang-out where locals
chat all afternoon over glasses of wine.
PORTUGUESE
€
O Cortiço
PORTUGUESE
€€
