Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
BEIRA ALTA
Heading north and west from the Serra da Estrela, mountains give way quickly to rolling
plains that stretch up to the Douro valley and east to Spain. Threat of invasion from its not-
always-friendly neighbour marks both the region's history and its landscape. A series of
fearsome fortress-towns are the biggest draw for travellers, though the cities of Viseu and
Guarda also have charms, from excellent local wines to troves of Renaissance art.
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Viseu
POP 47,250
One of the Beiras' most appealing cities, Viseu rivals more-visited Coimbra for sheer
charm and vitality. Its well-preserved historical centre offers numerous enticements to ped-
estrians: cobbled streets, meandering alleys, leafy public gardens and a central square -
Praça da República, aka the 'Rossio' - graced with bright flowers and fountains. Sweeping
vistas over the surrounding plains unfold from the town's highest point, the square fronting
the cathedral, built on the site of a former mosque, while some of Portugal's standout
Renaissance art is on show alongside. Viseu is also a great place to eat and drink: the reds
from the surrounding Dão region are considered to be some of Portugal's finest.
History
According to legend, Viriato, chief of the Lusitani tribe, took refuge in a cave here before
the Romans hunted him down in 139 BC . The Romans built a fortified camp just across
the Rio Pavia from Viseu. The town, conquered and reconquered in the struggles between
Christians and Moors, was definitively taken by Fernando I, king of Castilla y León, in
1057.
Afonso V completed Viseu's sturdy walls in about 1472. The town soon spread beyond
them, and grew fat from agriculture and trade. An annual 'free fair' declared by João III in
1510 carries on today as one of the region's biggest agricultural and handicrafts exposi-
tions.
