Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
HILL TOWNS OF THE NORTHERN SERRA
Two of the Serra da Estrela's prettiest towns are tucked high in the hills between Gouveia and Guarda. Neither
has much tourist infrastructure - part of their appeal.
Linhares
, designated an
aldeia histórica
(historic village) by the Portuguese government, is best known for its
imposing grey castle, which commands remarkable bird's-eye views over the surrounding countryside. Poke
around in the warren of stone houses, terraced hillsides and twisting lanes below the castle and you'll find signs
advertising rooms for rent;
Casa Pissarra
( 271 776 180; mariarpvpires@sapo.pt; Rua Direita; r €35-45,
house €120) is a good option offering two typical village houses. There's also an Inatel hotel. Below the church
on Largo da Igreja is
Cova da Loba
( 271 776 119;
www.covadaloba.com
; Largo da Igreja, Linhares da
Beira; mains €11-17; lunch Fri-Tue, dinner daily) , serving tasty contemporary Portuguese cuisine. Friendly
Cafe Mimoso
(Largo da Igreja, Linhares da Beira; light meals €2-5;
8am-11pm Wed-Mon) on the same
square is good for toasted sandwiches and coffee.
The biggest draw of
Folgosinho
, aside from its miniature castle, is its pretty main square, where you'll find
O
Albertino
( 238 745 266;
www.oalbertino-folgosinho.com
;
set menus €11-16; lunch & dinner Tue-Sat,
lunch Sun) , a cosy stone-walled restaurant specialising in down-to-earth mountain cuisine. Dinner is an all-you-
can-eat affair, featuring gamey favourites such as
feijoada de javali
(beans stewed with wild boar). Albertino also
rents rooms around town from €40.
TOP OF CHAPTER
Manteigas
POP 3430 / ELEV 720M
Cradled at the foot of the beautiful Vale do Zêzere, with high peaks and forest-draped
slopes dominating the horizon in all directions, Manteigas feels more like a true mountain
town than any of the other major Serra da Estrela gateways. There has been a settlement
here since at least Moorish times, probably because of the nearby Caldas de Manteigas hot
springs.
Manteigas makes an excellent base for hikers looking to explore the region. Walk
through the glacial valley above town and you'll still encounter terraced meadows, stone
shepherds' huts and tinkling goat-bells, while in Manteigas itself cobblestone streets and
older homes still hold their own against the high-rise development that has taken root on
the Serra's fringes.
From Seia or Gouveia you approach Manteigas down a near-vertical switchback road,
the N232. South of town, the N338 snakes up the Zêzere valley into the high country
between Torre and Penhas da Saúde.
