The Beiras - Portugal - page 678

clipped box hedges and little granite statues representing virtues, seasons, kings, saints,
months and continents among other things. Notice that the statues of Portugal's Spanish-
born kings Felipe I and II are smaller than those of the Portuguese monarchs.
At the bottom of the kings' stairway, there's a hidden, clap-activated fountain, sadly out
of order at the time of research. It was built by a loutish 18th-century bishop who liked to
surprise maidens by soaking their petticoats. Ask the attendant if it's back in operation.

Castelo
There's little left of the castle, which was built by the Knights Templar in the 13th
century and extended by Dom Dinis. A phone mast now stands where the chapel once
was. However, the garden, which has supplanted the walls, offers grand views over town
and countryside. The old lanes that lead back down to the town centre are also pictur-
esque.

CASTLE

Sleeping

Residencial Arraiana
( 272 341 637; [e-mail]; Av 1 de Maio 18; s/d/tr €25/40/50; ) A few blocks
southwest of the centre, Arraiana provides good value, with 30 well-kept rooms with little
minibar. It's an old-f ashioned , dignified little place, and you can always bank on finding
a room.

HOTEL €

Tryp Colina do Castelo
( 272 349 280; www.trypcolinacastelo.com ; Rua da Piscina; s/d €56/66; ) Soulless but
nicely positioned on the hillside northwest of the castelo, the city's top choice is a huge,
modern, business hotel affording fine views from most of its comfy, bright rooms. Amen-
ities include a nice indoor pool, squash and tennis courts and a gymnasium. There are
good family rooms, and some higher-grade rooms come with gym equipment.

HOTEL €€

Eating & Drinking

Frei Papinhas
( 272 323 090; Rua dos Prazeres 31; mains €8-12; lunch & dinner Tue-Sun) Appealingly rustic decor
characterises this superfriendly meat restaurant on a quiet street in the centre of town. The
genial host runs the grill, and will bring your order bit by bit to keep it warm. He'll also

GRILL HOUSE €