Travel Reference
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(Rua Olímpio Nicolau Rui Fernandes; Mon-Sat) A colourful stop for self-caterers, this market
is full of lively fruit and vegetable stalls and butcher shops displaying Portuguese cuts of
meat, hooves, claws and all.
Zé Manel dos Ossos
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TASCA €€
(Beco do Forno 12; mains €7-15; lunch & dinner Mon-Fri, lunch Sat) Tucked down a nondescript alley-
way, this little gem, which is papered with scholarly doodles and scribbled poems, is easy
to miss. Despite its location, it's highly popular, so come early or be ready to wait. Try the
good feijoada á leitão (a stew of beans and suckling pig). The charismatic service makes
dining here a delight.
Fangas Mercearia Bar
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( 934 093 636; Rua Fernandes Tomás 45; petiscos €4-7; noon-4pm & 7pm-1am Tue-Sun; ) Top-qual-
ity deli produce is used to produce delightful petiscos (like Portuguese tapas) in this bright
and beautiful dining room, the best place to eat in the old town. Service is slow but
friendly and will help you choose from a delicious array of tasty platters - sausages,
stuffed vegetables, conserves - and interesting wines. Book ahead as this small space al-
ways fills quickly.
PETISCOS €€
Loggia
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PORTUGUESE, BAR €€
( 239 853 076; www.loggia.pt ; Largo Dr José Rodrigues, Museu Nacional de Machado de Castro; mains €12;
10am-6pm Tue-Sun, 7.30-10.30pm Wed-Sat) This museum restaurant has one of the town's most en-
viable locations, on a flat deck with stunning views over the cascading roofs of the old
city. It's a romantic, candlelit dining scene by night, and great value for its confident mod-
ern Portuguese mains with a Roman twist (the lunchtime €7 special is also a steal). At oth-
er times, it's a venue for coffees or beers in the sunshine with the best vistas in town.
Restaurante Giro
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( 239 833 020; www.restaurantegiro.com ; Rua das Azeiteiras 39; mains €9-15; lunch & dinner Mon-Sat) This
back-alley place serves toothsome traditional Portuguese fare in a pleasant tiled dining
PORTUGUESE €€
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